The allure of balmy beachscapes and natural wonders justifiably swells the Northland population each summer. But as New Zealand’s only subtropical region, meaning mild winters alongside those long summers, the playground of Te Tai Tokerau Northland has year-round appeal. MCD editor Lisa Potter went exploring and discovered endless reasons to put the region at the top of your list for exploring, any time of the year.
Whether you’re familiar with Northland or a relative newcomer to discovering the region, there’s no denying the enticements of the picture-perfect beaches and bays, ancient kauri forests, rich cultural heritage and spectacular coastal landscapes.
Having previously spent time enjoying Wairere, Hokianga, Opononi and the wider Kauri Coast (Manea Footprints of Kupe is a must-experience, as well as visiting Tāne Mahuta and Wairere Boulders), this time we travelled via the Brynderwyns (thankfully reopened after extensive closure) and paused in Whangārei before heading northward.
Whangārei was well worth the stopover and for future planning. I’d recommend allocating an extra day or two to explore – including a full day for the Hundertwasser Art Centre with Wairau Māori Art Gallery alone, which is deserving of far more than just a cursory appreciation. The Town Basin is an excellent spot to base yourself for an activity-filled day. Positioned alongside the picturesque international yachting arena, it also offers a range of eateries as well as hand-blown glass demonstrations at Burning Issues Gallery, the Rolling Ball Clock and Claphams National Clock Museum and Whangārei Art Museum Te Manawa Toi.
All things Hundertwasser
Right: Hundertwasser Art Centre with Wairau Māori Art Gallery at Whangārei Town Basin
A showstopping example of the beauty of creativity and individuality, this eye-catching building is a wonderful homage to Friedensreich Hundertwasser’s dislike of straight lines and monotonous tones. The Austrian artist and architect emigrated to the Bay of Islands in the 1970s, becoming a New Zealand citizen in 1986. The radical free thinker with a passion for architecture, art and a waste-free society has left his indelible imprint on the region, with both the Art Centre and a number of other Hundertwasser-inspired buildings and monuments dotted around (stop off in Kawakawa to view the quirky Hundertwasser Public Toilets building, listed as a Category 1 historic place).
While the building’s exterior offers a glimpse of his vision, it’s well worth booking a guided tour to find out more about Hundertwasser’s fascinating life and vision, along with his absolute appreciation for nature and ecology. (Allow time for the 20-minute film, which offers further insights into his extraordinary life).
Also housed within these walls is Wairau Māori Art Gallery, the first dedicated contemporary public Māori art gallery in New Zealand and home to some of the finest examples of indigenous art in Aotearoa. The idea of a gallery for Māori art was integral to Hundertwasser’s vision when he originally proposed plans for his building in 1993.
Explore the afforested roof and see the iconic Golden Cupola at close quarters. This rooftop spot also affords an aerial view of the outdoor sculpture exhibition dotted around the grounds, as well as an appreciation of the art centre’s curvaceous design.
Book ahead to secure a table at Aqua, located inside the Hundertwasser Art Centre with Wairau Māori Art Gallery. With a well-deserved reputation for excellence, Aqua is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner (and boasts a top-notch cocktail and wine menu). The menu is creative and enticing, based around fresh seasonal ingredients, with clever and memorable combinations. There’s a lovely attention to detail around supporting local growers and sustainability, with a nose-to-tail approach, celebrating food and minimising waste (all organic waste is sent to an off-site worm farm for composting). In short, it’s delicious and should be on your must-do list.
After spending thoroughly enjoyable hours immersed in all things Hundertwasser, we continued our journey north for Paihia, where we settled in for a couple of nights at Scenic Hotel Bay of Islands and a healthy dose of authentic Kiwi hospitality. Just a short walk from the ocean, this resort-style accommodation caters for everyone from solo travellers to couples, families and groups, and even has dog-friendly rooms for those who like to bring their canine on holiday also. Surrounded by sub-tropical gardens, there’s even a swimming pool to cool off in and plenty of function spaces. The on-site Nikau Restaurant & Bar caters for hotel guests (room service is available) as well as the public, with a menu that celebrates local produce and seasonal dishes (we recommend the Akaroa king salmon tikka tacos).
Paihia perfection
The perfect location to discover the many coves, beaches and coastal delights of the Bay of Islands, Paihia wharf is a centre point of this appealing town, with regular cruises of all types departing daily. Whether you want to pop across to Russell (make sure you visit The Duke of Marlborough, New Zealand’s first licenced hotel, bar and restaurant), enjoy water-based activities (fishing, kayaking, scuba diving, paddleboarding etc) or truly take in the expanse of the stunning bays and surrounds, plan to spend time on the water.
While you’re at the wharf, visit Charlotte’s Kitchen and settle in for the evening to enjoy live music and epic wood-fired pizzas. The view doesn’t get any better, perched right at the end of the wharf so you can watch the various ocean activities.
There’s ample RV accommodation to choose from, including Paihia RV Park (for self-contained campers only), Waterfalls Estate Campground and Paihia Top 10 Holiday Park.
For the perfect start to your day, enjoy a brew from Third Wheel Coffee Co (tucked away down a side alley off the main street, but worth finding). With so much on offer (including a lovely selection of shops to browse), it’s obvious why Paihia is such a popular destination.
Discover the Bay(s)
Undoubtedly though, it’s on the water that you truly appreciate the best of what the Bay of Islands has to offer: spectacular scenery, an understanding of just how many islands there are (144), captivating wildlife, the iconic Motukōkako (The Hole in the Rock) and more. Fullers Bay of Islands offer a variety of options, from a Dolphin Eco Cruise (including a marine mammal viewing guarantee) to a half or full-day experience which includes an island buffet lunch and/or languishing beachside at Otehei Bay Café & Bar on the Department of Conservation’s Urupukapuka Island.
The largest of the islands, you can swim in the sandy bay, kayak and enjoy a leisurely hike with spectacular hilltop views. The bird life is also impressive and there’s a small gallery and gift shop.
A notable highlight of Fullers is the local knowledge shared by the skipper and crew, and it’s an inclusive and fun environment. It’s worth noting that Fullers Bay of Islands is one of only two operators in the Bay of Islands licensed by the Department of Conservation to interact with marine mammals. While dolphins (unusually) proved elusive on the day we visited, we did however spot hammerhead sharks and the ample bird life more than made up for it – gannets, shearwaters, petrel and tern, along with staggering shoals of shimmering fish.
The Hole in the Rock experience is absolutely memorable and definitely one for the Northland bucket list. The cavernous opening on Motukōkako island has been eroded by wind and waves over centuries. With the right weather conditions, you can sail right through, enjoying the adrenaline surge as the boat is safely skippered through the opening.
To top off the trip, the return journey notched up a level with the opportunity to experience boomnetting on the side of the boat – floating/swimming/swirling around in a giant net under the careful guidance of the crew.
Waitangi Treaty Grounds
Waitangi Treaty Grounds tops the list for a unique experience you’ll never encounter anywhere else in the world.
While once upon a time the words ‘cultural activity’ would have kids (and some adults) groaning in dismay, this birthplace of the nation is a powerful and impactful journey of discovery, packed with interactive experiences for all ages. As Aotearoa’s most important historic site, expectations are high – and are most definitely met.
With two contemporary museums, Te Rau Aroha Museum of the Price of Citizenship and the award-winning Te Kōngahu Museum of Waitangi, there is also the Treaty House, Te Whare Rūnanga and traditional Māori waka taua to discover and a full programme of tours and cultural performances.
Having experienced both the hangi and concert, as well as a guided day tour, every aspect was a feast for the senses – informing around Aotearoa’s early history and delivered by guides with a strong personal association and family knowledge.
Available from October to April, the hangi and concert is an evening of delicious food (cooked traditionally on the hangi) alongside entertainment and socialising with other visitors from around the world.
The opportunity to see ngātokimatawhaorua, the world’s largest ceremonial waka, in person is a moving experience, and hearing stories of its history whilst standing alongside it is powerful. Sheltered under Te Korowai ō Maikuku near Hobson Beach, this historic waka is launched just once every year, on Waitangi Day. Originally built by members of New Zealand’s northern and Waikato iwi (tribes) to mark the centenary of the Treaty of Waitangi’s signing in 1940, its place in history is meaningful and impactful.
A permanent exhibition Ko Waitangi Tēnei: This is Waitangi is a crucial part of Te Kōngahu Museum of Waitangi, telling the story of the Treaty of Waitangi from multiple perspectives, to offer a thought-provoking overview of events from this time. Featuring over 500 images and immersive audio-visual experiences, give yourself plenty of time to take this thoughtfully curated history in. Visitors are encouraged to reflect on what the Treaty means today.
In addition, a changing programme of exhibits rotate throughout the year, including paintings, textiles and photographs.
Check ahead of your visit for allocated times of cultural performances as these are a truly special experience, including songs, poi and a traditional haka. There’s even an opportunity to meet and chat with the cultural performers afterwards.
Soak up the experience
For a change of pace, as you depart Waitangi and head towards Kaikohe, nestled in the heart of Te Tai Tokerau Northland, is Ngawha Springs, an unexpected treat at any time of year.
With a long history as a restorative and healing place to visit, these culturally significant geothermal springs have been thoughtfully presented (in a surprisingly sleek setting) to allow visitors to choose from a variety of temperatures and minerals across the 16 public pools, ranging from tepid to hot (Bulldog, the oldest pool within the complex with its name originating from the growling sound it once made as the water forced its way out between the rocks). Private pools can also be enjoyed, but must be pre-booked, and prebooking is recommended for the daily two-hour public time slots.
Each pool has its own unique features; some are mud-bottomed and others feature timber slats on the sides and base. Pool hop until you find your preferred temperature and setting. Onsite changing rooms and showers are available and even if you’re not well organised, towels are available to hire.
If you enjoy the experience and plan to return, Kaikohe is a lovely spot to spend a little extra time, with excellent cycle trails to explore. It’s also home to New Zealand’s oldest courthouse, an 1875 cottage and a jail, all of which make up Kaikohe Pioneer Village, one of the key local attractions.
The Northland experience
Whether you opt for the contrasting east and west coasts or the top of the country, there’s a common thread connecting the smallest settlements to the larger towns, around honouring and celebrating the culture and rich history of Northland. Visually this part of the country is simply spectacular, and whether you’re an adrenalin junkie, looking to embrace some spiritual learnings or to embrace nature and wildlife, Te Tai Tokerau Northland is a priceless and awe-inspiring jewel that deserves to be celebrated and appreciated.
