Dramatic alpine scenery, spectacular landscapes and terrain carved by ancient glaciers, Wānaka represents the idyllic New Zealand postcard visual.
Exploring this majestic landscape of peaks, ridges, saddles and valleys that surround two of the country’s largest lakes can be done on foot, by bike, helicopter, plane, boat, and of course behind the wheel of your car or RV – or perhaps a combination of all.
Walking shoes were our choice for much of this adventure, which began at the southern end of Lake Wānaka (spanning 192km2 and New Zealand’s fourth largest lake).
As we viewed a map showing day and multi-day walking and cycling trails weaving through the area, we quickly realised that weeks, rather than days, would be required to explore properly – so perhaps a return trip!
Wānaka-based day walks
Roys Peak Track
Roys Peak Track is hugely popular for its spectacular views over Lake Wānaka and the Southern Alps. The 16km return hike is steep, requiring a high fitness level. Early morning, finding the carpark at the base of the track full, we opted for the lesser-known Diamond Lake and Rocky Mountain Tracks.
Diamond Lake and Rocky Mountain Tracks
On Wānaka Mt Aspiring Road, past the scenic lakefront Glendhu Bay Holiday Park and 18.5km from Wānaka, Diamond Lake Conservation Area carpark is the starting point for these tracks. On a 7km loop taking around 2.5 hours, we climbed flights of stairs to Diamond Lake Lookout. Below, the navy blue, tarn-like lake glitters like a jewel amongst its surrounding greenery, with ridges and snow-topped jutting peaks crossing the horizon.
Taking the ascending western track to Rocky Mountain’s 775m summit through native bush and below sheer rock cliffs, glimpses of Lake Wānaka and Roys Peak were afforded along the way – but the view from the top… Wow! Snow-capped Mt Aspiring peeks out amid the rugged Southern Alps, with zig-zag trails scarring Treble Cone. Fingers of land stretch into shimmering Lake Wānaka, the arms disappearing from view, while Wānaka, a distant white mass, hugs its shores.
Two of the five islands that dot the still lake are visible. One, Mou Waho Island, has a lake on its rocky summit and can be reached by an approximately 1-hour return walk with some steep sections. Take a water taxi from Wānaka, or a guided tour, to explore it.
As we descend steep, rocky sections on the east track, the lake spreads before us much of the way. Further down, a track leads to Lake Wānaka viewpoint, giving great views without too much of a climb.
Mount Iron
Carved by glaciers, Mount Iron is wedge-shaped. From the carpark on Wānaka-Luggate Highway, it’s up, up, up. The approximately 1.5-hour, round walk gives views over the township stretching from Mount Iron’s base to Lake Wānaka’s shoreline, backdropped by the Southern Alps. Ascending around 30 minutes to the 250m summit, 360° views included the verdant Upper Clutha Basin, and Albert Town, between Wānaka and Hāwea.
Glendhu Bay Track
Cycle or walk, approximately 14km from Wānaka along the gravel, lakefront Glendhu Bay Track, aka Millenium Track, to Glendhu Bay. Although hilly after Waterfall Creek, it gives stunning views across to Lake Wānaka’s eastern side, northwards to the shadowy Southern Alps and along the lake’s rocky coastline. The clear turquoise water reminds me of Mediterranean Islands. Stop for a dip in the cool waters at one of the small, pebbly beaches.
Further Afield
Cycle Hāwea to Wānaka
From Lake Hāwea’s azure shore, the gravelled Hāwea River Track runs behind a new Lake Hāwea subdivision, then alongside the adjacent Cemetery Road before following Hāwea River. The trail undulates, the cobalt river widens, and rugged, green mountains rise beyond. We ride below pine trees, stopping to watch kayakers and a surfer take on ‘The Wave’, two man-made waves of differing heights on the river.
On Hāwea Flat we cycle between long, flaxen grass towards snow-topped peaks before crossing the river on a suspension bridge into Albert Town Campground, where orange Californian poppies bloom. Crossing SH6 and Albert Town Bridge we follow the turquoise Clutha River to join Lake Wānaka Outlet Track. The way here narrows, with roots and rocks making riding a little trickier, especially when the views are so distracting and the river is mere metres away!
Reaching the shores of Lake Wānaka, where the Clutha River begins its 338km journey to the Pacific Ocean near Balclutha, we find white waves breaking the blue water. The distant Southern Alps thrust across the skyline. Following the lakeshore, green bush gives way to large homes with manicured lawns. We passed Bremner Bay, a popular swimming spot, and Eely Point where sunbathers lay on the shoreline, before whizzing by the marina to reach Wānaka township. The approximately 32km ride took 2.5 hours on e-bikes. Shuttles are available to Lake Hāwea.
Isthmus Peak Track
Spectacular views of Lakes Wānaka and Hāwea, and the Southern Alps can be enjoyed ascending the 16km return Isthmus Peak Track. This begins from the side of SH6, north of Lake Hāwea Township. Requiring a high level of fitness due to the steepness, it takes 5-7 hours, traversing forest, farmland and rock to a ridgeline. If you’re planning to enjoy this as part of your trip, make a note that it’s closed from November 20–December 20 for fawning season.
Fly, Hike, Jetboat
Driving northwards on SH6 and skirting Lake Wānaka’s eastern shore brings us to Makarora, 62km from Wānaka. It’s also the base for Wilkin River Jets, Backcountry Helicopters, and Southern Alps Air who run the exclusive Siberia Experience, a combo flight (25 mins), hike (3 hours) and jetboat (30 mins) adventure.
Having opted for this exciting triple-action offering, we set off in a six-seater Cessna, flying over the braided Makarora River, where trout and salmon can be fished, and Mt Aspiring National Park, which is World Heritage listed.
From above, the glacial, powdery blue Wilkin River weaves over a greyish-white riverbed hemmed by beech and Manuka forest. Low cloud hangs candyfloss-like around mountain tops. The flight takes us over the turquoise-green Lucidus Lake, cradled in a sheer-sided, high-mountain hollow, and glacial blue ice nestled in a rock peak. It’s simply breathtaking.
Touching down on flat grass alongside the Wilkin River in Siberia Valley, we’re dwarfed by ice-tipped mountains. We carefully wade across the sometimes thigh-high running river to begin our 7km hike.
Flattish to start, it follows the blue and green-hued river, with Mt Kuri and Mt Aeolus soaring to our distant right. Ascending through sun-dappled rainforest, with beech leaves littering the trail, it’s 3km to the track’s highpoint, followed by 2.5km downhill, where moss and ferns are prominent, and then into Wilkin Valley, glimpsing ranges and river. An easy walk, we were well within the three hours allocated to reach the jetboat pickup point.
Backdropped by majestic peaks, the 12km jet boat blast between Wilkin River’s grey shingle islands and banks was exhilarating, especially the 360° spins!
Blue Pools Track
Around 10 minutes’ drive north of Makarora Wonderland, the Blue Pools Track is an easy 3km return walk, enjoyed below silver beech trees. With peeks of Makarora River’s glacial blue water through the foliage, a swing bridge crosses the river, its banks cloaked in greenery, before a short boardwalk section delivers you to a second bridge. Blue River’s turquoise water sweeps down the gorge, stilling in bankside pools sheltered by sheer white and grey rock walls. The water clarity makes two huge rainbow trout, their heads blue and bodies sleek, easily visible.
The Secret Sauna
A great place to ease aching muscles from walking and cycling, we check out The Secret Sauna, at Lake Hāwea’s The Camp. An hour-long session in a lakeside, wood-fired barrel sauna, the air infused with essential oils, is broken every 20 minutes to submerge into the lake’s 9-11°C water. It’s exhilarating and good for you!
Where to Stay
A few freedom camping spots are available in the area as well as the following camping grounds:
Makarora
Makarora Country Café and Camp offers powered and non-powered sites.
Wonderland Makarora Lodge offers powered and non-powered sites as well as A-frame chalets.
Lake Hāwea
The Camp has lakeside accommodation options including tent and powered sites, cabins, cottages, a tiny house and several glamping choices including five-star domes. Bike rental is available, or grab a fishing rod and licence from the office and try your hand at salmon or trout fishing. A permanent on-site food truck saves cooking, with live music on Sundays.
Albert Town
Hampshire Holiday Parks’ Albert Town Campground has two sites, either side of SH6. The Clutha Riverside campground has basic facilities with flush toilets and running water. Hāwea River’s side has long drop toilets but no running water. No bookings are taken for this site; it operates on a first come, first served basis.
Wānaka
Tasman Holiday Parks – Wānaka, with its rejuvenating private sauna and spa, backs onto countryside with views to Mt Iron and town. Wanaka is a 20-30 minute walk via Wānaka Station Park, on the grounds of the original Wānaka Station, an 1850s farm, where Douglas Firs and Wellingtonias tower amongst shrubs and roses. Joining the lakefront’s Millenium Track, you’ll pass the much-photographed Crack Willow in the lake.
Wānaka Hampshire Holiday Parks is a 10-minute walk to central town, and just 5-minutes from the lakefront, shops and cafes. Choose from cabins and studios, as well as powered and unpowered sites. E-bike hire is available here if you fancy a little more adventuring.
Wānaka Food Spots
Brownston Street Food Trucks are generally open from noon–8pm. The aromas of Mexican and Asian cuisine, pizzas, slow-cooked meats, burgers, fried chicken and more are mouth-watering. The Bullock Creek babbles through the food truck area making for a lovely picnic setting. There are a number of other enticing food trucks about town.
Big Fig offers three bowl sizes, filled with your choice of slow-cooked meats, vegetables and salads. Popular at lunchtime, it’s also open for dinner.
Scroggin Coffee and Eatery opens at 7am to set you up for strenuous activities. An all-day menu features breakfast/brunch food. Think waffles, granola, eggs benedict, croissants, and sweet treats – scones, cakes and brownies. Freshly-baked chocolate-chip cookies between walks were the best ever!
