Tucked into New Zealand’s wild West Coast, Franz Josef is the beating heart of Glacier Country. When it comes to a winter getaway, Tom and Jord Tasman from Tasman Travels agree that it’s hard to find anywhere more spectacular.
This small but vibrant town is the gateway to some of the country’s most breathtaking landscapes, towering mountains, ancient glaciers, lush rainforests, and pristine lakes. For us, Franz Josef is more than just a destination; it’s a place of adventure, relaxation, and discovery.
Offering some of the world’s most accessible glaciers, the main attraction Franz Josef Glacier/Kā Roimata o Hine Hukatere descends from the top of the Southern Alps into rainforest close to sea level. This provides a rare opportunity to see or walk on a dynamic glacier within easy driving and walking distance from the main highway.
Franz Josef Glacier village is on State Highway 6 and is 135km (approximately 1 hour and 45 minutes) from Hokitika, 285km (approximately 3 hours and 35 minutes) from Wānaka and roughly 25 minutes from Fox Glacier village.
Franz Josef Glacier is just five kilometres from the village. From the glacier car park, it’s a 45-minute walk to the public glacier viewing point.
Where to Stay
Rainforest Retreat
One of our favourite places to stay in Franz Josef is Rainforest Retreat. It’s got everything from luxury treehouses to powered campsites, all set within a lush rainforest. We love the laid back, social atmosphere, the on-site bar and restaurant Monsoon, and the ever-present bird song. The tree lodges are something special, nestled among native ferns, offering a sense of seclusion and immersion in nature. Choose from family tree houses, log cabin tree lodges and cosy tree huts. The communal spaces are great too, with a cozy lounge area and an inviting spa pool. It’s the kind of place where you can meet fellow travellers or retreat into your own private sanctuary.
For larger groups or families, the Gecko Village within Rainforest Retreat offers modern and spacious accommodation. Gecko House features interconnecting rooms, allowing for flexible configurations of two, three, four, or even five bedrooms. A three-bedroom house includes one en-suite bedroom with a queen and single bed, plus two additional bedrooms with queen beds. Shared gardens and spa add to the secluded, communal feel of Gecko Village, making it a great place to unwind.
For those camping or caravanning, Rainforest Retreat provides well-maintained powered and unpowered sites within a beautiful rainforest setting. However, due to the size and shape of some setups, it’s best to call ahead if you have a larger caravan or motorhome. For us spanning 14 metres hitched up, there are limited spaces, so booking in advance ensures you get a suitable site. The amenities are excellent, with clean bathrooms, a well-equipped communal kitchen, and a laundry area. Plus, you still get access to the communal spa and Monsoon Bar, making it one of the best camping experiences in Franz Josef.
NZMCA Park
For NZMCA members, the NZMCA Park is a great option. Tucked away from the main town but still central, it’s a quiet, spacious spot with all the basics covered. The park features a dump station, fresh water, bins, and a lovely host who keeps everything running smoothly. We often find these parks to be a home away from home, and this one was no exception. It’s affordable, well-maintained, and ideal for those traveling in self-contained vehicles. And we always spot so many native birds and interesting bugs here.
Otto/Macdonald’s DOC Camp
Just a short drive from Franz Josef, the Otto/Macdonald’s DOC Camp offers a more rustic experience. Surrounded by native bush, it’s an incredible spot to wake up to birdsong and mountain views. It’s simple, affordable, and perfect if you want to feel more off the grid.
Lake Mapourika, right by the camp, is a fantastic place for swimming and kayaking. The calm, reflective waters make for a peaceful paddle, and the scenery is nothing short of spectacular. However, be sure to book your site online through the DOC website before you arrive – signal in the area is very limited, and you don’t want to miss out on a spot.
Waiho Hot Tubs
We highly recommend Waiho Hot Tubs and cannot wait to return! These private hot tubs are filled with pure West Coast rainwater and heated to your ideal wood fired temperature, providing a truly gorgeous experience. Nestled within a serene leafy setting, the tubs offer complete privacy and a peaceful escape with your own private dressing area. We were impressed by how impeccably clean and well-maintained they were, with friendly staff ensuring everything was just right for our soak. The soft lighting in the evening enhances the tranquil atmosphere, making it the perfect way to unwind after a day of exploring Franz Josef. Booking in advance is a must, as these hot tubs are incredibly popular.
Walks and Hikes
Franz Josef and its surrounding areas offer some of the best walks in the country. From a short stroll or a serious hike, there’s something for everyone. Here are some of our favourites:
Easy Walks
Franz Josef Glacier/Kā Roimata o Hine Hukatere Walk
This is the must-do if you want to see the glacier up close. The well-formed track takes you through rainforest, over rocky riverbeds, and to a viewpoint overlooking the Franz Josef Glacier. Even though you can’t walk on the glacier itself without a guided tour, the views are still breathtaking. We found this walk very accessible. Guided tours can be booked with Franz Josef Glacier Guides.
Terrace Walk
A short and easy loop through the rainforest, the Terrace Walk is perfect for a morning or evening stroll. It’s particularly beautiful at dusk when the forest comes alive with birdsong. You might even spot glowworms at night, making it a lovely little nature experience.
Tatare Tunnels Walk
This one’s a bit different – an eerie but fascinating walk through old water tunnels. Bring a headlamp and prepare for a bit of wading! It’s an adventure and a history lesson in one. The walk itself is relatively short but offers a unique glimpse into the region’s gold-mining past.
Fox Glacier South Side Walkway/Cycleway
Not far from Franz Josef, this track follows the Fox River and offers fantastic views of the Fox Glacier and surrounding valley. It’s an easy-going option with rewarding scenery. There are a multitude of options for exploring Fox Glacier, whether by helicopter, ice climbing or guides walks with Fox Glacier Guiding (celebrating 50 years of exploring this year), with its Helihike voted the best ‘Out of the Ordinary’ experience in the world by Travelers’ Choice.
More Challenging Hikes
Alex Knob Track
If you’re after a solid challenge with one of the best views around, Alex Knob is it. This full-day hike climbs through dense forest and eventually opens up to breathtaking panoramic views of Franz Josef Glacier. It’s a tough climb but completely worth it. The trail is steep and can be muddy, so good footwear is essential, but the sight of the glacier and the Southern Alps stretching into the distance is unbeatable. The track is 17.2 km return via the same path and takes approximately eight hours.
Roberts Point Track
A fantastic hike that takes you through lush rainforest, over suspension bridges, and up to a viewpoint overlooking the glacier. This track is about 12km and takes roughly 5.5 hours to complete. Expect some steep sections and rocky terrain.
Right: The Tatare Tunnels Walk is eerie but fascinating
Further Afield Walks
Gillespies Beach
A stunning coastal walk leading to historic gold mining relics and incredible views of the Tasman Sea. It’s a great spot to explore if you’re looking for something different from the rainforest and glaciers. However, to get to Gillespies Beach and its walks, you must drive down an 11km, unsealed road, single lane in most parts of the track, making it largely unsuitable for large vehicles or towing.
Ōkārito and the Lagoon Walks
Just north of Franz Josef, Ōkārito, one of our favourite spots on the motu, it’s home to a vast coastal lagoon, beautiful wetlands, and excellent birdwatching opportunities. The Ōkārito Trig Walk offers breathtaking views of the Southern Alps, while the Ōkārito Wetland Walk is perfect for spotting rare wildlife.
Where to Eat
Matheson Café
If you do the Lake Matheson / Te Ara Kairaumati Walk (and you should), then stopping at Matheson Café is a no-brainer. The food is fantastic, and the views from the deck are even better. They serve fresh cabinet yummies, and also serve hearty, locally sourced meals, making it a great spot for breakfast or lunch before heading off on your next adventure. Their Ramen and Venison Burger are both delicious options that we highly recommend. After your meal, be sure to check out the on-site shop, which offers a wonderful selection of local goods, souvenirs, and unique gifts to take home.
SnakeBite Brewery
Back in Franz Josef, SnakeBite Brewery is a great spot for a great meal and a craft beer. They do incredible Asian fusion dishes, and it’s the perfect place to wind down and catch up after a big day outdoors. The atmosphere is fun, and the staff are super friendly and always keen to share the history behind the many local beers and ciders brewed around New Zealand.
Final Thoughts
Franz Josef is one of those places that keeps luring you back. We’re repeat offenders and there’s no doubt we will return again. The glaciers, rainforest walks, birds and bush, or the chance to unwind in a private hot tub, there’s something truly special about this corner of New Zealand.
For us, it’s a mix of adventure and relaxation, and we can’t wait for our next visit. If you’re heading to the West Coast, check out glaciercountry.co.nz for more options on what to see and where, and put Franz Josef at the top of your list, you won’t regret it.
