An adventurer at heart, ex-pat Brit Sophie Piearcey is rarely happier than when she’s moments away from the unexpected. Thanks to her frequent South Island RV adventures, happiness is always just around the corner.
Some places feel like they’re made for vanlife – Kaikōura is one of them. After five days exploring Marlborough, we eagerly set off to our next destination, just a two-hour drive down the most spectacular coastline.
Kaikōura is one of those rare jewels that has us coming back time and time again. We can’t get enough of the dramatic mountain backdrops, endless ocean views, and marine life in every direction. This coastal town is the kind of spot you could plan to stay a night and end up staying a week.
It’s also one of those rare destinations where adventure and serenity exist side by side, where you can hike the clifftop peninsula trail, swim with dolphins at sunrise, and still find a quiet spot to watch the waves roll in with a hot coffee in hand, all in the same day.
We packed as much as we could from our bucket list of favourites into just 48 hours in this magical town, managing to achieve all of the following. We had a limited time window as we already had committed to plans further down the coast, but honestly, I’m already trying to plan a mission back to Kaikōura for more.
Coastal Camping Bliss
There’s something about waking up in Kaikōura that hits differently. Maybe it’s how the mountains catch the first light, or the sound of waves crashing just metres from our van. We parked at The Point Campsite, tucked right by the beach – simple, quiet, and perfect. This sweet campsite is also within walking distance of the Kaikōura Peninsula Walkway and the seal colony. Note, you need to be fully self-contained to stay here. If you’re after something a little more plush, the Kaikōura Top 10 Holiday Park is a solid choice (hot showers and a pool after a hike or ocean swim? Yes, please).
Sunset and Seals at South Bay
Right: Nothing can quite put into words seeing one of your favourite places from the sky
One of the best evenings of our whole road trip was spent doing something simple: Fish & chips on the picnic bench at South Bay, wrapped in blankets as the sky danced with the sunset colours. We picked up our kai (food) from Coopers Catch, an in-town institution for fish & chips. Also, if you are lucky enough to catch your own on a fishing charter, the team will cook it up for you here! After dinner, we slowly wandered along the Peninsula Walkway as the sun sank behind the ranges – seals lounging on the rocks below, and barely another soul in sight. It’s one of those moments that makes you want to pause and just appreciate and be.
Swim with Wild Dolphins
Right: Dusky dolphins in every direction
I didn’t think anything could top that sunset until the next morning. We booked the sunrise dolphin swim with Dolphin Encounter on a whim (it has been on my bucket list forever), and I’m still not over it. The alarm clock went off at 5am, and I reluctantly rolled from bed to coffee to wetsuit. Before I knew it, I was on a boat in the Pacific Ocean heading out to find a pod of wild yet local dusky dolphins, and THIS was the morning the whole crew decided to appear. Dolphins in every direction, jumping, flipping, and riding in the wake of the boat. With a few short, sharp blasts of the horn, I was in the water surrounded by dolphins, as if we were part of their pod. The water was eye-wateringly fresh. I didn’t care. Floating in the Pacific, surrounded by wild dolphins – it’s something I’ll remember for the rest of my life.
Zip, Paddle, and Soar
Kaikōura is a place where you can do as much or as little as you like. One sunset evening, we kayaked past seals sunbathing on the rocks. Another afternoon, we zipped through native forest with EcoZip, and if you’ve never whooped your way across a treetop line with mountain views all around, I highly recommend it.
But one of the real highlights? A sunrise helicopter flight with Southern Pacific Helicopters. Watching the light spill over the Kaikōura Ranges from the sky, nothing can quite put into words seeing one of your favourite places from the sky. Mountains, ocean, and a departing gift from the ocean’s giants, a humpback whale skimming the surface and disappearing with a tail whip into the deep blue.
Coffee, Views, and Marine Life
In between all the action, Kaikōura does slow mornings very well. As a counterpoint to our adrenaline bursts, we spent a lot of time doing a whole lot of nothing: grabbing coffee from the Esplanade cafes (The Encounter Café), sitting by the water, and watching for more whales and pods of dolphins. Honestly, we spotted dolphins more than once just from the shore. There are plenty of short walks to do here in town, and if you feel extra adventurous, jump on two wheels and complete the Kaikōura trail.
The Magic of Kaikōura
Right: Some experiences are unforgettable
We came for the wildlife and 48 hours of fun, and it was one of our favourite, most memorable trips. Wild but peaceful. Rugged yet welcoming.
It’s rare to find a place where you can tick off bucket-list experiences and still feel like you’re off the beaten path. In just two days, Kaikōura became more than just a road trip stop – it became one of the places we talked about long after the van was parked up back at home.
See you soon Kaikōura, we will be back!
