Ten minutes outside of Russell lies a cornucopia of delights, where nature thrives, and flora and fauna run abundant. MCD editor Catherine Milford encounters trails of every kind, from human walking ones to special ones for the indigenous wildlife.
From the south, there are two ways of getting to Orongo Bay by road. One is to travel straight up SH1, turning onto SH11 to Opua, Paihia and Russell via vehicle ferry. The other way is the Old Russell Road, around 20 minutes north of Whangarei. Google maps sometimes doesn’t recognise the ferry as a route, so if you input ‘Orongo Bay’ you’ll likely get option two.
If you’re towing, or driving a motorhome, however, learn from our mistake: take option one. While both routes have their fair share of twists and turns, the Old Russell Road, while peppered with plenty of beautiful beaches, is most definitely not advised for larger vehicles. We discovered this when a speeding car coming the other way on a blind corner strayed onto our side of the road, causing us to swerve, taking out the trailer wheel on one of the rocks that line the edge of the narrow route. Not the best of starts. Luckily the journey was worth it in the end.
Since then, we’ve revisited this Northland treasure several times, and the vehicle ferry ride – which takes all vehicles, though you may want to ring and book if you’re particularly large – from Opua to Okiato really makes you feel like you’re leaving your stresses behind. Even being on the ferry, just getting out of your car and feeling the breeze makes you take the biggest breath you’ve probably taken for weeks.
Finding our feathered friends
A ten-minute drive from Okiato ferry dock, Orongo Bay Holiday Park was our destination. Set on 14 acres, the park has undergone many changes recently; after years of being a great place to spot a weka or Pateke duck, or find eels in the stream, this year it has been named as a finalist in two New Zealand Tourism Awards categories. The park is now working with several schools, kids’ holiday programmes and local businesses to maintain the habitat required for the 55 different species of birds that live there.
Expect the odd visitor while you’re camping; North Island weka wander freely around the park during the day and are happy to pick up any stray food. A word to the wise: weka are omnivorous and will eat anything, so don’t leave any food outside overnight that you don’t want to disappear!
While it gets busy in peak season, the park is generally quiet, making it a great base for visitors keen on fishing, stargazing, walking, cycling, and relaxing in native bush. There’s something truly magical about fishing for your own snapper, picking up some potatoes and sweetcorn and cooking them over the fire pit at the back of the park. The communal area also has wood fired and gas barbecues, as well as a wood-fired pizza oven, making dinner under the stars a memory you’re unlikely to forget. With little light pollution and plenty of bush, you can end your night gazing at the innumerable stars injecting the dark sky, with just the sound of kiwi calling in the bush as you drift off.
Nature’s bounty
The holiday park works closely with several organisations who are committed to protecting the area from pests and pollution. Project Island Song is the Bay of Islands’ wildlife sanctuary, with the aim of restoring the area’s natural ecosystem. Key programmes include stopping non-native predators and weeds from getting to the islands – which have been pest-free since 2009, restoring the native habitat, and returning vulnerable native wildlife. To date, 21 species of birds, reptiles, invertebrates, and plants have been identified for reintroduction, seven of which have been completed to date.
June 2021 saw two relocations: first was the transfer of kakariki onto Urupukapuka. “This was our hardest translocation to date,” says Project Island Song general manager Richard Robbins. “Firstly, it was postponed from 2020 because of Covid; secondly we had terrible weather during the catching expedition and transfer.” Three days later, on 21 June, 81 wetapunga – the giant weta, whose Māori name translates as ‘the god of ugly things’ – were released onto Urupukapuka, Motorua, and Motuarohia. More will be released over the next three years as part of a partnership with Auckland Zoo.
The next translocation is the Northland green gecko, planned for 2022. A threatened species because of invasive mammal pests, they will be reintroduced to the safety of the pest-free islands of Ipipiri.
On your feet
There are many excellent reasons to visit the Bay of Islands, but if you’re a keen walker or cyclist and you haven’t been in recent years, now is the time.
Orongo Bay and its surrounds provide a feast of options for those wanting to enjoy the area’s natural beauty. There are multiple walks, many of which are divided into stages – handy when not everyone wants to walk the same distance! The full day circle walk begins with a walk into Russell township; take the foot ferry across to Paihia, then walk along the coast to Opua and take the vehicle ferry back to Okiato.
The Okiato to Russell Walkway was the brainchild of Roger Dane in 2003, who saw the potential for an off-road walkway. Thanks to an army of volunteers, the fourth and final leg of the 8.2km Okiato to Russell Walkway was opened in September 2021. The walk itself is divided into four easy stages, this last one starting at Hirst Reserve, and connects the grass track to the 510m boardwalk across the mangrove flats directly opposite the holiday park. There are also plans underway for a shared cycleway from Russell to Okiato.
Make it a group challenge
The Bay of Islands Walking Weekend is set to go ahead in 2022, after having to postpone in 2021 (due to that-which-we’re-done-with-naming). All walks start at the Russell Bowling Club, and you can take your choice from 22 planned walks, depending on your mood and fitness level. Many of the walks take in stops along the way; popular stops include Omata Estate Vineyard, Paroa Bay Vineyard and ‘Back to the Future’, which includes sailing, walking, a wine tasting and lunch.
Not a walker? Seasoned cyclists will no doubt already be aware of the Twin Coast Cycle Trail, which begins in Opua and runs for 87km from the Bay of Islands to the Hokianga Harbour. With stunning scenery and magnificent views, this is a fascinating journey through our earliest Māori and European settlements. The trip is divided into four sections, making the ride suitable for cyclists of all ages and stages; however, part of the route is currently closed as they strengthen the longest bridge in the Southern Hemisphere, secure the tunnel and reinstate the old steam train from Kawakawa back to Opua.
Nicely nourishing
It’s hard to be in Orongo Bay without tripping over the local delicacy – their oysters. While many of the restaurants are situated in Russell, Kororareka Oysters, a seven-minute walk from the holiday park, is a stop on many of the area’s walks, and produces rich, creamy oysters that are hard to beat, even in a 5-star restaurant. And at $15 per dozen (opened), you’re unlikely to beat them on price too.
With walks, wine, history and stunning scenery, Orongo Bay, though small, is a place that will constantly surprise you. But wherever you choose to stop in this very special part of Northland, one thing is guaranteed: every time you visit, you’ll fall in love all over again.
More Information
- Orongo Bay Holiday Park russellaccommodation.co.nz
- For more details on walks in the area, including rescheduled walks, visit boiwalkingweekend.co.nz/walks-programme
- For information on the Okiato to Russell walkway, visit boiwalkways.co.nz
- To find out more about Project Island Song and get involved, visit projectislandsong.co.nz
- Northland Ferries operates as a shuttle, departing approximately every 10 minutes during the day, and every 20 minutes early morning and late evening. Suitable for all vehicles; campervan cost is based on average length per berth. northlandferries.co.nz/bay-of-islands-ferry/
- For more on the Twin Coast Cycle Trail, visit twincoastcycletrail.kiwi.nz. Note some parts of the trail are currently closed, so check your route before you leave.
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