Elisabeth Easther cycles Adventure South’s newest Central North Island itinerary, Ruapehu & the Three Rivers, and declares it a feast for the senses
The newest addition to Adventure South’s impressive array of cycle tours (numbering almost 30 in total around the country), this six-day journey offers a memorable exploration of the region’s active volcanoes, three mighty rivers, glorious farmland and vibrant forests.
From the beginning
As I completed the 340km Mt Ruapehu & the Three Rivers ride, I had some small sense of how Edmund Hillary must have felt when he first summited Everest. And, just like Sir Ed, I also knew I could never have knocked the bastard off without our sherpas. In this case, our two tireless ever-smiling guides, Annie Lowerson and Robbie Marchant, whose knowledge and all-round capability made every day a joy.
Such positive leadership is important because this itinerary of rural riding with its backdrop of imposing mountains and impressive serpentine waterways does require a fair bit of effort from the riders. Some of the hills seemed to go on for ever, but the sense of achievement and satisfaction at the end of each day – and at the conclusion of the week – made it all worthwhile.
What’s more, this six-day ride was a feast for the five senses, and all of mine were on high beam as I pedalled through magnificent Central North Island scenery.
Sight
We had all the weathers on our trip: sun, rain and wind, sometimes all at the same time, but this added something to the experience. From transforming the Whanganui River into a ribbon of molten mustard, above the waterline we admired sheer cliffs upholstered with tenacious trees and cascades of white water tumbling down, making the river rise dramatically. Amplifying the greens of bush and forest, light from an impending weather system gave the world a supernatural glow. Not that I took a lot of pictures during the inclement sections of our journey, as it’s best to keep moving when things turn foul, but you can trust me when I say that the landscape down this way was dramatic. I was also blown away by the formidable strength of water. How over eons, water is nature’s architect, having carved its way through rugged rocks to form ravines, canyons and valleys.
Elsewhere, emerald paddocks positively glowed and were populated with squads of snowy lambs. Many twin sets and triplets too, they frolicked under the watchful eyes of their stoic mums. From neighbouring paddocks, prize bulls lounged on grassy knolls, as if posing for an inseminator’s calendar. I wondered if they felt lonely, as their wives and kids munched grass in the fields next door? In another paddock, a Clydesdale cantered over to toss its mane, and we really saw each other. Eye to eye, human and horse.
One of the great things about our guides, aside from their being endlessly capable, is that Annie was truly passionate about birds and botany, and she pointed out various species of flower we may not have noticed or learned about otherwise. Among them the native rewarewa and a charming epiphyte, an Easter orchid clinging to the base of a cabbage tree at our lunch spot when we rode from Pipiriki to Whanganui.
Stopping for a short walk through Sutherlands Reserve not far from Hunterville, we stopped to walk the trails beneath towering titoki that had dropped crazy seeds like a cross between a Jaffa and an alien’s eyeball. Further in, sunlight dappled the mossy undergrowth beneath stands of rimu, tōtara and kahikatea. As for the views from the two towers atop Durrie Hill in Whanganui, they were splendid, making this ride a total sight for sore eyes.
Sound
Kōwhai trees down this way are huge, and from their boughs similarly super-sized tūi sang duets with lambs in all stages of life. From cautious new-borns to confident rumbunctious toddlers, the tiniest ones peeked shyly out from behind their mothers while the older ones got up to mischief with their mates – all of them bleating at the humans on bicycles. Clearly saying something to the effect of ‘what on earth are you doing?’.
Beyond the wind in the trees and the crunch of our tyres on gravel, there was a lot of birdsong. From the hoots of distant peacocks to the delicate peeps of piwakawaka – but best of all the surrounding sounds, the deep peace of the country was music to my ears.
Taste
There was so much to say ‘yum’ about on this trip, including the most excellent provisioning en route with hospitality taken to new heights. This is one of the many things Adventure South excels at, with one guide riding with the group and the other going on ahead with the van, so after riding for a few hours, you find the van and a picnic.
A table will be set up complete with tablecloths and chairs, and an array of baking, hot and cold drinks and fruit. And all the way, a veritable smorgasbord of snacks. I also appreciated how in Pipiriki, even though the café was closed, Annie whipped up a little roadside coffee stop and handed round slices and cookies.
Stand-out meals included both dinners at The Powderkeg in Ohakune. Duck one night, a roast the other, both fabulous, plus epic desserts and breakfasts. On the first morning I stuck to my usual muesli and fruit, but by day two I leaned in to what was on offer and had an omelette with all the trimmings. The two packed lunches from The Powderkeg also hit the spot and I wonder if one day I’ll move there – just for the food!
By the time we got to Makoura Lodge in Āpiti in Manawatū, I was eating like a bear preparing for hibernation. Makoura Lodge is a family-owned country property offering accommodation as well as operating as a wedding, conference and 4WD training venue.
One other major takeaway in terms of taste, the salt sweat that ran down my face while riding some of the bigger hills – overall we climbed a total of 4887m – was quite lickable after a long hot ride, so long as there was no sunscreen to mar the sweaty salt flavour.
Smell
Right: Milky River selfie
I’ll be honest, not all country smells are fragrances you’d dab behind your ears, but most of the time the combination of blossoms and wet wool, manure and damp grass combined to make my nostrils twitch quite happily.
Not so sweet on the nose, the roadkill, as we passed quite a few flattened things, and you do notice the stench of decay from the saddle of a bike. Stinky sheets of squashed possum, hedgehogs, rabbits, hares and a turkey or two. But on day three, when the sun came out and we cycled towards Whanganui, the aroma of blossom was so pungent, it was like pedalling through a perfume store. The walk to the Bridge to Nowhere was also redolent with smells of rich loamy earth and native bush that really resonated in the old sniffer thanks to the rain.
Touch
I won’t go into too much detail about the effects a bike saddle can have on one’s nether regions, even with a saddle padder and my padded pants, suffice to say, it can take a toll – but on the plus side, the bike I rode was set up just right, with no joint or muscle soreness at the end of each day. My heart also felt great pumping up all those hills. Exercise is such a good feeling, and I felt noticeably stronger by ride’s end.
Once back home in Auckland, cycling here and there for life, the city’s many hills were mere bumps. As for the headwinds we faced some days, I thought of them as a poor woman’s facelift.
And let’s not forget the Aotea Motor Lodge in Whanganui, which had a giant spa bath in the actual room! Beside the bed! I was so happy to see that vast spa tub, I chose to miss dinner in favour of wallowing in warm water where I ate muesli and read my book with the jets on full – bliss!
Beyond having all my senses titivated, the other main takeaway from this sublime cycle tour was the joy of experiencing a quieter life.
The antithesis to busy Auckland, we cycled in places I’d never otherwise have discovered.
There were plenty of places along the way well worth revisiting. So, if you feel adventurous and want to explore some special parts of the North Island, sign up for Mt Ruapehu & the Three Rivers cycle tour and you too might come back to your senses.
Ruapehu & the Three Rivers Itinerary
Day 1: Briefing; Bike Fit; Taihape to Ohakune Heartland Ride. Up to 53k, 909m
Day 2: Ohakune – Whanganui River Adventure (jetboating and canoeing)
Day 3: Cycling the Whanganui River Road. Up to 54km, 727m
Day 4: Whanganui to Hunterville. Up to 73km, 1145m
Day 5: Manawatū. Cycle up to 76km, 1030m on Manawatū Cycleway (Heartland Ride)
Day 6: Manawatū to Taupō. Up to 60km, 876m on Manawatū Cycle
Fresh Adventures
Adventure South’s Mt Ruapehu & the Three Rivers is a fully supported 340km cycle ride through the rural charms of the Manawatū and Whanganui regions. Start in Taihape and ride through to Ohakune, admire three rivers (Whanganui, Whangaehu and Rangitikei) as you go, as well as experiencing the volcanic plateau through the Ruahine Ranges all the way to historic Mangaweka.
Three new North Island itineraries were introduced this season: Mt Ruapehu & the Three Rivers; Mt Taranaki & The Forgotten World; North Island Volcanic Plateau Loop.
Fast Facts: Mt Ruapehu & the Three Rivers
- Six days, five nights
- 340km cycled
- Moderate grading over road/gravel
- Fully supported – accommodation and meals
