When Catherine and Hugh Wakelin decided on a midlife gap year centred around travel, they chose a New Zealand OE instead of venturing offshore. The couple sold their Waikato home and moved to Te Anau to immerse themselves in South Island opportunities.
With so many stunning vistas to explore, the couple became familiar with their new surroundings. Catherine shares some of their favourite experiences from what became a 2.5-year South Island adventure, some of which they enjoyed on repeat.
Day Walks
Mavora Lakes is made up of two lakes – North and South. We walked most of the southern one. It’s an easy, rewarding track and one of the few places you can take dogs. We walked it with a dusting of snow underfoot, and that little bit of winter always makes the whole place feel more dramatic and memorable.
The lakes sit along the Te Araroa Trail, which runs the length of New Zealand, and we crossed paths with a few walkers who were full of stories.
Great news for those with campervans and caravans as you are allowed to stay out there, and while the access road is gravel, the trip is worth it. The same road continues all the way through to Lake Whakatipu and Walter Peak, though you’ll need to leave the caravan and campervan behind. We struck a stunning day and managed to talk our way into joining the buffet lunch at Walter Peak Station, where the Earnslaw arrives from Queenstown.
Favourites on the road to Milford
Key Summit is a great short walk that leads to wide, open views of the Humboldt and Darran ranges. It became the one we did most often (about four times) because it’s ideal for visitors and only takes around three hours return. The track starts at the Divide, the beginning of the Routeburn. A surprising number of people stop at the summit and turn back, but the nature walk at the top is where the best views are.
Lake Marian is a fun 2.5-hour walk that starts off Hollyford Valley Road. You can walk over the swing bridge and up to the waterfall lookout – about 20 minutes return – or, if you’re a confident walker, keep going to the alpine lake tucked right into the mountains. We did it twice, and the lake felt completely different each time: moody and dramatic on the first visit, then clear, hot, and perfect for a swim on the second.
There are a couple of gnarly spots where you rockhop and climb up tree roots, but it all looks harder than it actually is. It’s absolutely doable.
Gertrude Saddle sits just before the Homer Tunnel. This track is strictly for experienced trampers. Don’t attempt it in rain or snow, as parts of the route climb steep slabs of rock and rely on fixed cables for support. The effort pays off, though. About three quarters of the way up you reach a glacierfed tarn, an ideal spot for a break or even a quick swim. The final push to the saddle opens a dramatic view straight down to Milford Sound.
I walked it twice, and knowing what was ahead definitely made the second time easier. We managed it in about 3.5 hours return. Take some food, if only to give yourself something to do other than stare at the views. You might even spot rock climbers on the surrounding faces. Watching them hanging above those drops is equal parts impressive and unnerving.
When we ended our two and half years in the South Island and moved back to the Waikato, we hunted for the perfect piece of Fiordland to hang on our wall. We found it in a Douglas Thorne photograph: a tiny rock wren perched in front of him on Gertrude Saddle, with Milford Sound far below. It captured everything we loved about that place and now hangs pride of place in our living room.
Eglinton Valley is a simple but beautiful stop. It has a wide, stony river you can wander along with the mountains rising on both sides, and in December this is where you can go to enjoy the lupins.
To get closer to the river there is a small gravel/dirt track you can drive down before you get to the Mirror Lakes (not in the campervan), which brings you closer to the river. I loved spending time there as the valley, the mountains, and the stony river are magic. If you love to fish, then this is a great place to stop for both brown and rainbow trout.
The river flows from Lake Gunn, which is also worth a stop. The viewing is after Mirror Lakes (if it’s a still day and there are no ducks in the water, you can see the mountains behind mirrored in the water as you stand on the viewing platforms). You can also pull over to the side of the road and if the weather is on your side, you can get some bigger mirror images – gorgeous.
Borland Saddle sits beyond Lake Monowai, south of Te Anau, in one of the quieter corners of Fiordland. Lake Monowai itself is well off the usual tourist route, and even without tackling a walk, it’s worth the trip for its peaceful setting and the gentle, shaded stroll out to the lookout – a welcome option on a hot day.
To reach the start of the climb, turn onto Borland Road, a gravel route that requires careful driving as it follows the power transmission lines running from the Manapouri power station through the mountains. From the car park, the track rises steeply for about an hour, leading into an alpine landscape of tarns, tussock, and wide views across the ranges. It’s a rewarding climb, and we lingered at the top for much of the day, just taking in the stillness and the scenery.
There are several walks in the Borland area, and the only one I didn’t manage to fit in was the Green Lake Track. It has excellent reviews and a great hut, making it an appealing overnight option with multiple route choices in and out. It’s firmly on the list for next time.
Parts of the Kepler Track offer easy, scenic options starting from the Te Anau Control Gates. Heading right takes you on a gentle stroll to Brod Bay, with views back across the lake towards Te Anau township. Turning left leads you toward Rainbow Reach – the second access point for the Kepler. If you’re feeling energetic, you can continue all the way to Moturau Hut on the shores of Lake Manapouri.
If you’re up to a challenge, you can walk up to Mount Luxmore Hut. There are three ways to do this: fly to the Hut and walk down; boat to Brod Bay and walk up and down; or walk from the control gates. The views are incredible and you may get to interact with the local kea.
Lake Te Anau foreshore
Right: Swimming in an alpine lake is always refreshing!
Lake Te Anau’s foreshore became our daily ritual, walking the dogs along the edge of the water and meeting a mix of locals, visitors, and fellow dogowners. You can wander for kilometres if your dogs are willing, with the lake stretching out beside you and the scenery shifting as you go. The views are a constant reward – up the length of the lake and across to the Murchison Mountains and to Mount Luxmore. One day, though, our dog Lottie decided she’d had quite enough of the whole outing. Halfway along the track she simply stopped, looked at Hugh, turned on her heel, and bolted home to me. By the time Hugh realised she wasn’t bluffing, she was already trotting up the driveway. It became one of those classic ‘only our dog’ stories that still makes us laugh.
Other Te Anau Moments
Sailing on the lake: Viewing Te Anau aboard Faith, an elegant 1935 motor yacht, is a memorable experience. The boat itself has a story – it’s originally from Scotland and if you’re lucky, Adam, the owner, will bring out the bagpipes, which feels wonderfully fitting as you glide across the lake. We went out on a Valentine’s Day evening sail, staying on board rather than going ashore, but Fiordland Historic Cruises also offer various private charters and scenic cruises. One of these includes a walk to the hidden lakes tucked across from the township. It’s a gentle, atmospheric way to see Te Anau from the water, with a touch of oldworld charm.
Boating on the lake: Owning a boat in Te Anau gave us a whole different way to experience the lake, and we spent some unforgettable days exploring. The lake is divided into the main body, and the South, Middle, and North Arms. The northern arm is where the Milford Track begins and is 50 kilometres up the lake from the Te Anau marina. We didn’t get that far but with 344km² of water, there’s no shortage of places to roam.
There are plenty of places to pull in along the lake edge, and it’s not unusual to find groups of locals setting up for the day, with a chillybin, a towel, and maybe a portable BBQ – treating it like their own lakeside beach. With so many sheltered bays and stretches of shoreline, it’s easy to claim a quiet spot and make a day of it.
One especially calm summer day, we took our son James and two of his friends out to the deepest part of the lake, halfway down the South Arm. The water there drops to 425 metres, a depth that feels almost unreal when you’re floating above it. I wasn’t keen, but they all leapt in for a swim – a quick, bracing dip.
Enlightening experiences
Lake Te Anau Glowworm Caves: These were a real surprise and far better than we expected. The trip starts with a cruise across Lake Te Anau, before landing at the base of the Murchison Mountains. It’s the only way you’ll ever set foot there, as the land is otherwise off limits as this is where the takahē was famously rediscovered in 1954.
RealNZ runs the tours and they’ve created a genuinely impressive experience. The caves themselves are almost as striking as the glowworms, with sculpted limestone, rushing water, and narrow passages. At the end of the walkway, small boats carry you quietly into the glowworm grotto, where the darkness gives way to a canopy of bluegreen light.
There are a few rules: stay quiet, no photos, and cover your smartwatch. At one point the boats pass each other in the dark, and the only reason I realised another group was gliding by was because a lone glowing smartwatch floated past like a tiny UFO.
Southern Lights: Wow, if you are there at the right time, this is one of those once-in-a-lifetime amazing experiences. No two shows are the same! If you haven’t seen them before, it’s best to look at them through your phone, as the colours are more vibrant. The locals have their favourite spots to watch from, and we joined many times down on the shores at the marina, sitting in our car drinking our hot drinks.
Views, views, views
Te Anau Lookout: This is an easy detour on the drive into town. A short climb up Ramparts Road brings you to a viewpoint where you can see both Lake Te Anau and Lake Manapouri, along with a wide, clear view over Te Anau township itself. It’s a simple stop, but the perspective over the two lakes makes it well worth the few extra minutes.
A helicopter trip up to Mount Luxmore is a fantastic way to see the area from above. There are several scenic flight options, and I went with Southern Lakes Helicopters. It was a gorgeous day, and because I was working at the golf club at the time, the pilot even flew us over the course for a quick look from the air. Landing up on Luxmore in fresh snow was a real highlight – crisp, bright, and a completely different perspective on the landscape you usually only see from the track.
Whichever option you choose, there’s absolutely no denying that Lake Te Anau and its surrounds deserve all the time you can spare to explore.
Winter weather
Surprisingly, winter in Fiordland (June-August) is the most settled time of year. Although the daylight hours are much shorter with sunrise being about 8.30am and sunset about 4.30pm, the skies are often blue and cloudless. The air is crisp and fresh, and snow is seen on the mountains. A trip into Piopiotahi/Milford Sound is a spectacular event with snow to low levels. Bring lots of layers, including a warm hat and gloves and you will feel more alive than ever.
The proximity of three of New Zealand’s 10 Great Walks places Te Anau firmly on the map as New Zealand’s walking capital. Here, you can set off on the Milford Track, Kepler Track, Routeburn Track and other multi-day hikes.
