Some people say Tasmania is the one of the best destinations on Earth for a motorhome adventure. Curious to know if that was true, when Elisabeth Easther spotted an epic deal from Auckland to Hobart with Air New Zealand flying direct, she took the plunge.
And what did I discover on my trip to Tasmania? That it is indeed a most outstanding motorhome destination, boasting unspoilt National Parks and magnificent campsites. The roads are also excellent and because the population sits at a modest 575,000, there’s not a lot of traffic to contend with.
The journey begins
After dedicating some time to exploring the delightful seaside city of Hobart, we collected our six-berth Polaris 6 from Star RV near Hobart Airport. There the affable team gave us a useful rundown on our extravagant vehicle, and without further ado, we were ready to rock and roll.
Before departing, we took a rummage through the grocery box filled with leftovers from travellers past, grabbing oil and teabags, salt and pepper; appreciative of the waste-not want-not mentality. Then off to the supermarket to stock up fully for our eight-day adventure, with the Star RV kitchen boasting a generous fridge, gas and electric elements as well as all essential utensils.
Day One: Hobart to Liffey Falls via historic Richmond (202km)
Right: Settling in at the Liffey Falls campsite, otherwise known as paradise
With our National Parks permit pre-purchased, printed and placed on the dashboard, we drove 17km to historic Richmond. With easy parking on the main street, we joined tourists perusing the well-preserved Georgian architecture, the arts, crafts and cafes. Richmond is also home to Australia’s oldest stone span bridge. Built two hundred years ago by convicts, it still stands strong today. A small prison can also be toured, as can the convict-built courthouse, some of the many reminders of Tasmania’s penal past.
Back on the road, the Tasmanian countryside unfurled beside us, a blend of gum trees and low scrub. Taking a quick detour, we stopped for lunch at Lake Arthur. Not another soul in sight – rustic holiday homes were all buttoned up, waiting for summer – as we picnicked from our freshly stocked larder. Chairs and table set up at the water’s edge, we marvelled at the lake and landscape. Although with 180km to go, we didn’t linger and after climbing for some kilometres, we finally crested the range to find a giant bowl of arable land spread out before us. From there, the road wound down via a series of switchbacks, and despite the Polaris being 7.7m long, it was a breeze to drive. Eventually the shadows grew longer, the trees tiger striped the tar seal, and we arrived at Liffey Falls and the most peaceful campsite on Earth.
Keen to stretch my legs while my co-pilot made camp, I strode to Liffey Falls as birds called from the canopy of towering gums and the breeze rustled the branches. Water burbled over bleached white stones the colour of bones, while up at the falls I took lungfuls of crisp forest air before trotting back down for dinner.
Back at our riverside camp, Peter had lit a fire, which is not only permitted, but encouraged, because each pitch has its own fire pit complete with fresh cut wood. Cooking in our well-appointed camper’s kitchen and enjoying a hot shower while other people made do in pup tents, we drifted off as snug as bugs. We also thrilled at all the little discoveries from how the blinds worked to the comfort of the beds, not to mention the onboard bathroom with separate shower. When it rained in the night, the pitter patter on the roof deepened our sleep.
Day Two: Liffey Falls to Goshen via Deloraine and Launceston (200km)
Waking in the forest, the only indication of neighbours was a thin plume of smoke from the campsite next to us. As much as we’d like to have stayed longer, we had plenty of places to go on our itinerary, and just 27km later reached quaint Deloraine, on the banks of Meander River. A haven for artists and craftspeople, Deloraine offers several short walks, great coffee and cool second-hand shops.
Continuing 50km east, Launceston is all elegant Edwardian and Georgian architecture, while Cataract Gorge is a 65-million-year-old wonder. Whether you buy a ticket to ride the world’s longest single span chairlift, swim or walk, the scenery here is superb, but there was a pre-booked paddock with our name on it in rural Goshen, so we drove on. Some 151km later we found our field as dusk fell on the giant grassy space that we had all to ourselves. A bit chilly for putting up the awning, we cooked a hearty dinner and ate indoors. After another deep sleep, we woke to the squawking, squeaking, peeping, cheeping of Australia’s bombastic birds.
Day Three: Goshen to Freycinet, via Bay Of Fires (128km)
Leaving our private paddock where my co-pilot had a close encounter with a leech (boy did it bleed), we headed for sweet St Helens to tackle the Bay of Fires mountain bike trail. With 42kms of single track ahead of us, we made sure we were fully informed about what to expect. Important to know, we were informed about the three poisonous snakes in Tasmania, and advised to make a noise to scare them away if we saw any. If we were at speed on our bikes and had to run over one, we were told to lift our legs and apologise. Oh, and if you are bitten, don’t move, because snake venom is intramuscular so just activate the EPIRB and wait for the chopper. Noted. And with that handy advice, off we whizzed downhill along beautifully crafted undulating trails through bush that was both exotic and somehow familiar. The only sounds were our wheels on the dirt, the wind in the trees and more birdsong, a medley of wolf whistles, doorbells and the occasional kookaburra laughing like a drain.
Whizzing down rocky white paths of sandstone, where every stick looked like a snake, we saw our first echidna. A prickly monotreme that thrilled me. Buzzing and breezing through the prehistoric landscape, we reached the sea four and a half hours later, then were returned to St Helens. Fortunately, no snake avoiding tactics were required.
Day Four: Freycinet National Park
With a seafront powered site booked at magical Freycincet National Park, even though every campsite was occupied, this quiet little crescent of beach never felt crowded.
Waking in paradise, despite being a bit sore from the previous day’s challenging MTB adventure, we decided to tackle the 11km Wine Glass Bay & Hazards Beach Circuit.
Starting with a hefty climb up dusty Flintstone-sized steps, the vast cobbles paved the way to a series of stunning lookouts where I gave the Australian Parks & Wildlife Service a standing ovation. What a beautiful walk, with birds and frogs, lagoons full of life and swathes of pristine beaches.
That same night, because the next day’s forecast didn’t look great, we booked a kayak trip with a pair of charming Argentinian brothers called Joachim and Francisco who took our small group for a sunset paddle, sharing their extensive knowledge of history and seabirds, before a pod of dolphins unexpectedly joined us. What an absolute treat.
Making land at Honeymoon Bay, the brothers served hot chocolate and fancy locally baked biscuits before guiding us home, as giant rays glided beneath us and a sea eagle soared overhead.
Day Five: Freycinet National Park
Right: The view from Freycinet Campsite
Ready for a slower day, we started with a swim in the perfect clear water cove just metres from our camper.
Properly refreshed we walked the windy path to Tourville Lighthouse, then another short trek to Sleepy Bay. A day of simple pleasures, we rounded it off with giant doorstops of fruit toast spread thickly with Tasmanian butter.
Day Six: Freycinet National Park to Triabunna (112km)
After three glorious nights in Freycinet, our next stop was the sweet fishing village of Triabunna, pulling in at historic Swansea en route where the public loo boasts an exquisite view of Nine Mile Beach from a long-tinted window.
On to historic Spiky Bridge, hand built by convicts in the 1840s, the rugged coastal scenery was dotted with wildflowers in full bloom. Finally, we came to rest in a field behind the Triabunna Pub, paying a tenner to the publican for the use of his no-frills paddock, because Triabunna is the gateway to magnificent Maria Island.
Day Seven: Maria Island/wukaluwikiwyna and on to Port Arthur Holiday Park (91km)
Right: Another day, another wonderful wombat
Located 20km from the mainland, we took the 9:15 ferry to the looming cloud-shrouded hulk on the horizon to discover that Maria Island is a riot of wildlife. We’d barely stepped foot on land when we saw our first wombat, then a wallaby bounced past. Although we never spotted a Tasmanian devil, there’s always next time.
A former convict enclave, Maria is criss crossed with walking tracks, ruins and relics. The fossil cliffs were also mesmerising and after spotting my first kangaroo near Millers Cottage, I soon realised the entire hillside was studded with them.
However, do pack a picnic, as there are no provisions on Maria. After enjoyable exploring, it was au revoir to Maria on the afternoon ferry, as we wanted to drive the 91km to Port Arthur Holiday Park before dark. Set on impressive 40 hectares of bushland, a short walk leads campers to Stewarts Bay, a serene soft sand beach backed by tall gums, with dinner that night a wonderful mish mash of leftovers.
Day Eight: Port Arthur to Hobart (75km)
Port Arthur is a UNESCO World Heritage-listed historic site, and the best-preserved convict settlement in Australia. The $48 entrance fee allows visitor access across two days. Occupying a vast tract of coastal land, the wind from Antarctica was sharp, and you could imagine how brutal it was for the prisoners, some of them children as young as nine. Exploring bare cells and the opulent homes of the commandants, the past weighed heavily and reminded us to be grateful for all that we have. So, with gratitude in our hearts, we returned to Star RV, having discovered that Tasmania is indeed a most excellent destination for a motorhome adventure.
Hobart
Stay: Islington Hotel where luxury is taken to new heights.
Do: MONA, the Museum of Old and New Art is mind-blowing.
Eat: Pritzi for dinner, Daci & Daci for breakfast, and a Van Diemen’s Land ice cream (or two) is essential.
Get High: Take the Explorer Hop On Hop Off bus and ride all the way to the top of kunanyi/Mt Wellington.
Star RV Polaris 6 motorhome
The JUCY and Star RV branch is conveniently located just minutes from Hobart’s International Airport. The Polaris 6 was a dream to drive and live in. Six berths with two double beds down below and a sleeper over the cab. The bathroom had a separate shower so no damp loo paper, and it was economical on diesel and handled as well on highways as it did on windy roads.
Handy to know
Tasmania Tourism has hotspots everywhere and visitors get 30 minutes of free Wi-Fi each day, which is more than enough for Wordle.
