Long-time traveller Lisa Jansen makes the journey to New Zealand’s southernmost settlement and discovers that having traversed every corner of the mainland, this remote edge of Aotearoa delivers not just the missing piece of her travel map, but a deeper connection to raw, untamed beauty and a small, welcoming community that calls Stewart Island home.
After having travelled full-time around beautiful New Zealand for over six years, and part-time for twice as many, there aren’t a lot of places left that I’ve never been. In fact, up until recently, there was only one major destination remaining – New Zealand’s last frontier: Rakiura/Stewart Island.
I’m far from the only one to leave Rakiura until last. The island is remote and not the easiest place to get to. It’s also not exactly a motorhome or caravan destination. You’d have to book a special barge to get your RV over to the island, and once there, you’d likely struggle to find a place to stay.
Despite those challenges, I’ve always wanted to go. So, when the opportunity arose, I didn’t hesitate. It didn’t take me long to realise that this little paradise in the deep south is well worth leaving your RV behind for a few days (or more).
Rakiura/Stewart Island
If I were asked to describe Rakiura in two sentences, I would choose these two: There are only about 28km of road suitable for cars, but 280km of walking tracks. Around 400 people live on the island permanently, and around 13,000 kiwis. That tells you most of what you need to know about the island.
Rakiura (meaning Land of Glowing Skies) is only about 30km south of Invercargill at the bottom of the South Island, but feels like a world away. It’s remote, and Oban is the only settlement, with Rakiura National Park covering the rest of the land (about 85%).
Despite its remoteness, the island has a long human history. Māori were the first to arrive, using the island seasonally for food gathering. European sealers and whalers followed in the early 1800s, and small fishing settlements began to form.
Fishing remains a significant part of life on Rakiura and a source of income for many residents. More recently, the island has become a popular tourist destination, especially over the summer months.
When to visit Stewart Island?
I chose to visit in the middle of winter, which might seem like an odd choice. However, don’t overthink your planning calendar as Stewart Island is a great destination year-round. Thanks to its marine environment, it’s warmer in winter than many other parts of the South Island, and with relatively high rainfall year-round, the chances of getting wet are almost as high in summer as they are in winter. Plus, there is something special about visiting remote places in the off-season. It’s quiet and you get a sense of the real place – not the tourist version.
Nevertheless, most visitors choose to come over the summer months, when the days are long, the weather is a little more settled, and more of the island’s small businesses are open. There are only a few shops and places to eat anyway – many are closed in winter – so it pays to check ahead before heading over so you have a good idea of what is available.
Things to do in Stewart Island
Right: The island is crisscrossed with walking tracks
Walking, walking and more walking. If you enjoy nature walks, put Stewart Island straight to the top of your must-do list. The island is crisscrossed with walking tracks ranging from short strolls to multi-day epics, and walking really is the best way to appreciate its beauty. The bush feels untouched, the coastline is dramatic, and there’s always the chance of spotting rare wildlife along the way.
One of the most famous options is the Rakiura Great Walk, a three-day loop that takes in beaches, bush, and boardwalks through wetlands. If you don’t have time (or stamina) for the full circuit, the first section makes for an excellent day walk. Another great option is the Ackers Point Lighthouse Track, an easy walk that starts right in Oban and winds around the bay out to the lighthouse. For something slightly more challenging, the Horseshoe Point Loop offers a good mix of coastal views and forest sections.
My personal highlight, however, was the walk from Mason Bay to Freshwater Hut. We caught a tiny plane from Oban that landed directly on Mason Bay Beach – an adventure in itself – then spent a night at the Mason Bay Hut. The next day, we walked across wetlands (with lots of mud) and through native bush to Freshwater Hut, where we stayed another night before being collected by water taxi. It was remote, wild, and unforgettable – everything I had imagined Stewart Island would be.
Kiwi and wildlife tours
Rakiura is often called the best place in New Zealand to spot wild kiwi. The sheer number makes it more likely that you will encounter them.
In addition, the Stewart Island tokoeka is the only type of kiwi known to regularly be active during the day, further increasing the chances. However, as always when it comes to wildlife, there are no guarantees.
We gave it our best shot, with multiple night walks, including one in a remote area, but sadly, no kiwi showed up for us. In hindsight, we should have booked a guided tour. The local guides know exactly where to go, and success rates are very high.
If you want to maximise your chances of seeing a kiwi (or other rare birds), a tour is the way to go.
Ulva Island
One of the highlights of our trip! Ulva Island/Te Wharawhara, just a short water taxi ride from Oban, is a predator-free sanctuary. It’s a haven where native birds thrive and the forest feels like a glimpse into New Zealand’s past.
The walking tracks are well-formed and easy, leading you through lush podocarp forest and down to sheltered bays and golden beaches. The birdlife in the bush is incredible and left us with a whole new appreciation of just how much harm introduced predators are causing. You can’t help but feel a bit sad that it isn’t like this everywhere in New Zealand. Ulva is an unforgettable experience and an absolute must-do when visiting Stewart Island.
The Museum
For such a small town, Oban has a surprisingly rich little museum. It’s a great place to spend a rainy day (which you are almost guaranteed to have at some stage) and learn about the island’s Māori and European history, its fishing and timber past, and, of course, the stories of hardy island life.
Moturau Moana Native Gardens
Perched on the hillside above Halfmoon Bay, the Moturau Moana Gardens are New Zealand’s southernmost public gardens. They were originally the private collection of Noeline Baker, who gifted the property to the government in 1940 to preserve her vision of showcasing native plants. Today, the small but scenic gardens remain a peaceful haven, with winding paths, established native trees, and views over the bay. It’s a lovely spot to slow down and appreciate the diverse flora of New Zealand.
Sunday quiz night at the pub
If you’re in town on a Sunday, don’t miss quiz night at the South Sea Hotel. It’s a great way to meet some locals and experience the island’s hospitality. The food is excellent too. I especially recommend the venison couscous salad if it’s on the menu. Divine!
Rent an e-bike and explore
With limited roads but plenty to see around Oban and Halfmoon Bay, hiring an e-bike is a fun way to cover ground. Discover beaches, coves and bush, with the freedom to stop wherever the scenery catches your eye. The awesome Stewart Island Electric Bikes team are happy to share their local expertise of the best spots worth cycling to.
Eating, drinking and shopping
Given only 400 people live here permanently, you won’t be surprised to hear that shops and eateries are limited. However, Oban has a surprisingly well-stocked and reasonably priced Four Square. There are also several places to eat: the South Sea Hotel, a fish and chip cart, and a pizza place. In winter, many operate on reduced hours or close altogether, so don’t expect endless dining options.
A couple of small shops sell souvenirs and gifts, perfect for a memento of your trip. Iconic merino clothing brand Glowing Skies, founded on Rakiura, also has a small store right next to the Four Square.
Where to stay
Let’s get one thing straight: This is not the place to bring your RV. Leave your RV in Invercargill and find alternative island accommodation. Oban offers cosy lodges, B&Bs, backpackers and baches for rent. Surrounded by native bush and ocean, Greenvale B&B allows you to literally step out onto the Rakiura Track. Here you can enjoy your morning coffee and breakfast to the sound of birdsong.
It’s also important to consider transport. Some baches come with a car, which can be very handy. Other accommodation providers offer shuttle services to get to the sights further afield. Stewart Island might be small, but not everything is within easy walking distance.
Getting there
Most visitors arrive by ferry from Bluff, on the southern tip of the South Island. The crossing takes about an hour and has a reputation for being rough. On a calm day, it can be a scenic and enjoyable ride, with chances of spotting albatross and dolphins, but if you’re prone to seasickness, be prepared.
The alternative is to fly. Stewart Island Flights run regular services between Invercargill and Oban’s tiny airstrip, a flight of about 20 minutes. It’s quicker and more comfortable than the ferry, and on a clear day the views are spectacular. The downside is that you’re only allowed 15kg of baggage.
Regardless of how you get there, it will be worth it. Rakiura’s remoteness is its magic. Whether you come for the hiking, the wildlife, or simply the chance to experience a quiet corner of Aotearoa, the island has a way of leaving its mark.
For me, visiting in winter made it even more memorable. I love the calmness and the sense of discovering the island at its most authentic.
It’s a place I’ll never forget, and one I’d encourage anyone with a spirit for adventure to add to their New Zealand journey.
