Of all the places in New Zealand, Auckland has arguably been hit hardest over the past two years. Multiple lockdowns in a city of over 1.7 million people has led to big changes for many – but Aucklanders are nothing if not a resilient lot. Catherine Milford discovers that with change comes evolution, and Tāmaki Makaurau has plenty to offer those visiting our biggest city.
Named by Lonely Planet as the world’s ‘best city to visit in 2022’ in October 2021, Auckland is pretty unusual by global standards. While not our capital city, Auckland is a major gateway to the rest of the country, open to the Tasman Ocean from the west and the Pacific Ocean on the east. The city lies on a narrow strip between two harbours – the Waitematā, and the wide, shallow Manukau Harbour. Further north is the Kaipara Harbour – by area, one of the largest harbours in the world, at 947 square kilometres.
Auckland is home to one third of all New Zealanders, and there’s plenty to see and do, whether you’re staying in the city’s CBD, or heading out to the suburbs, beaches and bush that pepper this vital city.
Central art style
Covid has wrought a lot of changes on central Auckland, but the CBD is still a great place to be. The area is home to a diverse collection of cultures and history, and this is often where you’ll find some of the country’s most impressive art, music, food and festivals. If you’re taking a wander up Queen Street, make time to stop at Aotea Square, Auckland’s largest inner city outdoor space. From January 28, pull up a chair in the urban garden, grab a drink and a snack and settle in to enjoy some free entertainment at Auckland Live’s Summer in the Square. Take a journey through one of the curated festival weekends celebrating a Latin fiesta, jazz, circus, dance, music and more, with live performances from across the motu and beyond.
If art and conservation is your thing, from January 24, WWF NZ has created Whale Tails, an immersive art experience celebrating Aotearoa, art and marine conservation. The pod of uniquely designed and painted whale tales is made up of 80 Big Broo (large tail) sculptures, and 80 Pēpi Pod (mini tail) sculptures dotted around Auckland’s streets, parks and open spaces. The tails – inspired by the endangered Bryde’s whale – tells the tales of our moana, and how we all play a part in keeping our ocean healthy.
Set atop the hill in the stunning Domain, between Parnell and Newmarket sits the Auckland Museum. Watch how volcanoes are made, make native birds come alive, and enjoy a huge array of exhibitions and events. As you’d expect, there is no shortage of historic taonga (treasures) at the Auckland War Memorial Museum; it’s actually the largest collection in the world. From small, precious artefacts to an original full-sized marae and waka, this fascinating glimpse into early Māori culture is not to be missed.
Shop ‘til you drop
If you’re here to shop, don’t miss a visit to Commercial Bay, Auckland’s newest shopping centre. Next to the stunning Waitematā Harbour, this is a hotspot for some fantastic shopping, eating and drinking. Browse through some international big-name brands, like Calvin Klein, Dior, H&M, Hugo Boss and Tommy Hilfiger; check out some of New Zealand’s best designers like Veronika Maine, Twenty-Seven Names and Icebreaker; maybe even treat yourself to a hair and beauty treatment. After you’ve shopped up a storm, take advantage of the multitude of food and drink on offer, ranging from fast food to some of New Zealand’s top restaurants. For a taste of New Zealand, award-winning chef Ben Bayly’s restaurant, Ahi, is tough to beat. Laid back and sophisticated, Ahi – translated from Te Reo Māori as ‘Fire’ – is Ben’s answer to the often-asked question of what the definition of New Zealand food truly is.
For a truly eclectic experience, take a walk along Karangahape Road, affectionately known as ‘K Road’. This is where you’ll find the alternative arts scene, and some of the best vintage shops in New Zealand. This colourful, vibrant street is home to art galleries, tattoo parlours, film studios, fashion shops, street art and much more. Fascinating by day, this one-of-a-kind road is truly remarkable at night; take a stroll down the road and take your pick from a smorgasbord of food and drink options, including the multi award-winning Apèro and Lebanese food restaurant Gemmayze Street, as well as a huge selection of Asian, Turkish, Mediterranean and Latin American foods.
Bridge the gap
Head across Auckland’s iconic Harbour Bridge for some of the city’s best beaches, great food and drink, and some of the city’s oldest histories. A short ferry ride from Britomart, Devonport sits under the protection of Takarunga Mount Victoria, and features great shopping, and some fascinating history including underground tunnels, gun emplacements and fortifications. Take a trip through some of the local art galleries and see how the surrounding landscape has inspired beautiful paintings and photographs; if you just want to sit and relax, take in a movie at The Vic, a beautifully restored Victorian cinema showing the latest movies.
A little further down Lake Road, Takapuna and Milford are renowned for their stunning beaches, great food – and if you’re in Takapuna on a Sunday, a buzzing market for fresh fruit and veg, crafts, furniture and antiques. The second Sunday of every month also sees The Market Collaborative at Smales Farm, where you’ll find fresh produce from some of Auckland’s leading artisans.
This market is great for dog owners, as not only is it dog-friendly, but a number of stalls are happy to give your furry friend a cool drink and a tasty snack! February 13th is a red-letter day for car lovers, with the Repco Takapuna Rocks classic car and hot rod show, plus the Summer Days festival, with music, food and drink and plenty of fun on offer for everyone.
Coast to Coast
Depending on where you are, there are a vast array of walking options in Auckland, but one that really ticks the boxes is the Coast to Coast Walkway, a hike across Auckland from Waitematā to Manukau. The 16km-long route takes you through landscapes shaped by 600 years of Māori occupation and through some of Auckland’s finest natural and manmade heritage, with some spectacular views along the way. The walk is split into three easy sections: from the city to Auckland Domain (50 minutes); Grafton to Maungakiekie (90 minutes); and Cornwall Park to Manukau Harbour (90 minutes).
Over the Harbour Bridge, the Devonport to Takapuna Green Route Walk and shared cycle path takes you from Devonport, through local parks and the mangrove wetlands at Shoal Bay, through to Takapuna Beach. The 9.5km walk takes around two hours, and is mostly easy – but watch out for a couple of steep hills at the beginning and end.
More Information
Please note that most Auckland destinations require a vaccine pass on entry. Visit health.govt.nz for more information.
For more on Whale Tales, visit whaletales2022.org
Summer In The Square events have been cancelled due to COVID-19 restrictions. Visit aucklandlive.co.nz/event/summer-in-the-square for more info.
The Repco Takapuna Rocks and Summer Days festival has been cancelled due to COVID-19 restrictions. Visit Takapunarocks.co.nz for more info.
Visit commercialbay.co.nz/dine for more on what’s available at Commercial Bay.
Book tickets for the Auckland Museum at aucklandmuseum.com
Campgrounds
There are a number of holiday parks around Auckland. The Auckland Council website aucklandcouncil.govt.nz contains a comprehensive list of places to stay.
Looking for motorhomes or caravans for sale in NZ? Browse our latest listings here.
