Pamela Wade discovered there was a lot more to do than she bargained for when she took a winter trip to Queenstown. Making my first-ever winter visit to Queenstown, it was chastening to discover that, for all these years, I’ve been quite wrong in thinking this infamous snow destination only has eyes for skiers and snowboarders. If you’re heading here during the cooler months, there are a host of other cold-weather activities to enjoy that don’t involve spending up large, or risking life and limb.
SCOOTING:
Fancy a go on the snow but not at the risk of a debilitating injury? A newcomer to Coronet Peak is the Yooner. This, owner Tuki Huck explains, is a development of a French invention: basically, a lightweight single ski with a bike-type seat and a gripping handle. The important thing to note here is that you are only squatting-distance above the snow, so that any tumbles are minor, while the enjoyment factor is definitely major.
In one session with Tuki, after only a couple of experiments on the gentle nursery slope, I graduated straight onto the chairlift run, shooting down, through and around the standing sliders, trailing my fingers in the snow to do graceful sweeping turns, and skimming excitingly fast to the bottom. It was huge fun and it’s clearly addictive too: Tuki’s father has entirely abandoned skis now after a lifetime on them, preferring sitting to standing, with all the same thrills for much less effort.
EXPEDITIONING:
Snowshoes have come a long way since the tennis racquet days. Now they are efficient and streamlined, the design perfected so that all you have to remember is not to stand on yourself. After minimal instruction, we set off confidently from the Remarkables ski base with Chris of Basecamp Adventures, stamping our feet down onto the packed snow of the runs for easy grip.
Soon the bustle of skiers and boarders was behind us, and we were into the delights of virgin powder snow, steadily climbing up towards Lake Alta. The gradient was manageable, helped by many info stops when Chris explained geology, history, nature and more, and we could gaze around us at the magical scenery of snowy peaks stretching in all directions.
Standing on the frozen lake, we watched more intrepid skiers and boarders sliding down from the ridge above. We tramped along more sedately, following hare tracks to lookout points with stunning views and then, after several fun tumbles in deep, dry powder snow, returning to the ski base, well pleased with our achievement.
DRIVING:
Actually, being driven. The Skippers Road, especially in winter, is not for the faint-hearted: it’s narrow, winding, unsealed and deeply rutted, with dizzying drop-offs and treacherous icy patches. We were glad to leave the responsibility to Peter of Nomad Safaris, who has done the route around a hundred times, although he admits it’s always different.
Today it was snowy enough that chains were a possibility, so we had to forgo the glamour of driving in a Tesla Model X with a windscreen that curves up into the roof, instead taking a doughtier Land Cruiser. It felt more in keeping with the rugged history of the road, which Peter told us about as he drove: the challenge of layered schist, hacking the road by hand, building the impressive suspension bridge, establishing townships – all driven by the 1860s gold rush.
After stopping for views, movie-worthy stories and close inspection of massive icicles, we arrived at the reconstructed Skippers school building. Standing in the small, unheated classroom on this chilly day, we looked at photos of the people who had lived here, and marvelled at their fortitude. Though our gold-panning efforts down by the river produced only one tiny speck of colour, it was enough to help us understand what drove them to endure such hardship – almost.
FLYING:
Lifting off the ground in a chopper to fly past Queenstown and along Lake Wakatipu into Mt Aspiring National Park was a great start to this jaunt with Glacier Southern Lakes Helicopters – but from then on it only got better. Pilot Albie, perhaps as a result of doing aerial filming for the Lord Of The Rings movies, specialises in drifting quietly along high, sheer cliffs, slowly rising to suddenly crest a sharp ridge, revealing a breath-taking new vista of steep, snow-clad peaks stretching to the horizon. Waterfalls, lakes, glaciers, hidden valleys, winding rivers, dense bush and bare rock led us to the always spectacular Mitre Peak ahead of us.
Landing at Milford, we got a coffee before wandering along the waterfront, admiring that iconic view. Then, swapping seats, we took off once again, this time to fly the whole length of Milford Sound, close to its many waterfalls, before landing on a remote beach out on the coast – although not so isolated that there wasn’t the neat ruin of an old stone cottage to admire.
Away again, back inland and over that long and impossibly steep-sided fiord, we crossed the green Hollyford Valley and, passing close by rocky mountain sides, landed this time on a remote and pristine glacier, beside the classic triangular peak of Mt Tutoko, to everyone’s bubbling excitement. To stand high up in the mountains, with ourselves the only sign of life in this hostile but stunningly beautiful environment, was so very special.
www.glaciersouthernlakes.co.nz
CRUISING:
For over a century, the TSS Earnslaw has been chugging back and forth across Lake Wakatipu, burning through a tonne of coal each trip. Watching the stokers repeatedly shovelling coal into the fires below is just one of the delights of sailing on the Lady of the Lake, though the magnificent scenery outside is a guaranteed distraction. The lunchtime destination of Walter Peak Station is another.
After arriving at this lovely and historic old homestead sprawled along the shore, and tucking into the properly delicious barbecue lunch laid on – the farm’s own Silere merino lamb leg is superb – we watched Al and eye-dog Kim control a handful of stroppy sheep. Then we got up close with a variety of friendly farm animals, from eager goats and shy deer to big horned Highland cattle.
WALLOWING:
It’s a hard call, whether it’s better to go to Onsen Hot Pools in daytime, or at night. Overlooking the Shotover River, the focal point of an unspoiled view, it’s tempting to choose being able to look down on it all. At night, though, in winter, is when it gets even more special. Shown to your private room, where the steam is rising from the cedar-lined tub, you ease into the 38.5 degree fresh mountain water.
Below, the snow is white in the candle light; beyond, the hillside is backlit by the glow from town; above, the black sky is gashed by the Milky Way, and the Southern Cross hangs over the mountains. It’s glorious – and the complimentary pinot noir and Whittaker’s chocolate? Icing.
EATING
Of course, you’re spoiled for choice in Queenstown. You can do the ritual queue at Fergburger, along with dozens of patiently resigned customers – or take the locals’ tip and head over to Devil Burger for a gourmet version. They will admit though that the blue cheese pie at Ferg’s newish bakery is hard to beat. Out along Steamer Wharf there’s a wealth of fine dining, some of it outdoors under heaters for extra appetite stimulation. Ivy and Lola’s is great for mussel pots, though the two-hour smoked ribeye is quite special. For a cheerful indoor vibe, as well as very enthusiastically grilled meat, Flame Bar and Grill is deservedly popular.
fergburger.com
devilburger.com
ivyandlolas.com
flamegrill.co.nz
-Pamela Wade was hosted by Destination Queenstown.
