While Raglan is well known for its rugged black sand coastline, challenging surf beach and summertime boom, at the same time, the words ‘natural’, ‘organic’, and ‘wild’ are synonymous with this quirky coastal town. As Mel de Jongh discovers, it’s not just a summer destination either and offers plenty to spark joy over the winter months.
Just under two hours (155km) from Auckland and 35 minutes from Hamilton, Raglan would seem an obvious location to visit. However, many city dwellers overlook the town, opting instead for more popular East Coast beaches. Together with my husband Simon, and children Peyton and Aidan, we set out to investigate Raglan as a winter holiday spot.
Two days before our planned visit, the weather report seemed to shine in our honour. But, to our disappointment, the rain closed in on our departure. Thankfully, the road to Raglan from Auckland is pretty kind, and we stuck to following the state highways so the weather didn’t impede our trip. As our six-year-old Aidan detests more than an hour strapped in, we chose to break up our drive and exercise his energetic legs.
I recommend the café at Hampton Downs, Aoraki Coffee, as a good stop-off spot when travelling from Auckland. Car enthusiasts will certainly know what I mean, but for those who appreciate coffee and a view (even if you’re not a motoring buff), this is a great spot to make a stop and refuel. The Hampton Downs offramp is roughly an hour from Auckland, conveniently situated next to the Waikato Expressway. The café offers cabinet food and a full brunch/lunch menu. While you wait, you can either gaze at the view over the track or wander around the race cars on display. Large windows allow you to observe the Toyota workshop next door for enthusiasts who enjoy the inner workings. Aidan loves checking out race cars, but he may be disappointed to learn that without a willing sponsor, car racing will remain a spectator sport only for him.
After tearing the boys away from the cars, we were straight back on the road, headed towards our destination. Ten minutes out of Raglan sits Te Uku wind farm. This Meridian Energy development is situated on nearly 56km of private farmland. The turbines tower 80 metres above grazing cattle below, each with 28 blades that measure 49 metres in length. Annually, they’re said to create 250 gigawatt hours of electricity. As you wind down towards Raglan, there are several vantage points to witness these impressive turbines, perched regally on the hills.
To get up close and personal with these mammoth structures, the Pipiwharauroa Walking and Biking Trail is open to the public. Taking you over privately-owned farmland and paper roads, the 18km trip takes you 430 metres above sea level but does offer outstanding views over the Te Uku wind farm site and greater Waikato.
Art and history
Raglan is a small, pretty township that clearly takes pride in its appearance. Originally named Whāingaroa Village, the Ngāti Māhanga iwi occupied the area surrounding Raglan in the late 18th Century. Around 1854, Raglan began to develop as a British settlement and was renamed in 1858 after British commander, Lord Raglan. The 15 Phoenix palm trees in the centre of Bow Street were planted nearly 90 years ago, a legacy of the early settlers.
The historians at Raglan Museum have installed signs around Raglan township with photographs of old heritage sites, detailing information on each location.
We dragged the kids around (somewhat unwillingly in the drizzle) to explore Raglan’s historic sites. My competitive family became quite focused on finding the next sign, so we wiled away a few hours on this adventure, despite early scepticism.
There are numerous heritage buildings, including the Raglan School, Courthouse Cottage, Town Hall, and the Harbourview Hotel. The hotel is a beautiful two-storey weatherboard villa that surveys the town from a central vantage point. The building was established by George Moon in 1866; at the time Raglan was growing in popularity as a European settlement. It was destroyed by fire in 1901 and then in 1904. As it was important to the local community, the Nathan brothers who had since taken ownership, rebuilt the hotel both times.
The hotel has maintained its longstanding reputation and often hosts live music and community gatherings.
For a more thorough history lesson, the Raglan Museum at 15 Wainui Road is worth a visit. It’s open from 10am to 3pm daily with a $5 entry fee for adults and $2 for kids.
Raglan is also home to creative artists who uniquely capture the beauty of the area. The ‘Artists at Work’ Gallery in town is worth a wander through, whether or not you plan on buying your next piece and a number of local artists host open studios from time to time. The Tony Sly Pottery Studio is also a popular drawcard.
Foodies delight
There’s a surprisingly diverse selection of options available for foodies, whether you’re looking to enjoy a special evening with a group of friends or simply a good-quality coffee.
Whether you’re driven by your tastebuds or simply wish to escape the winter chill, Raglan will not disappoint, with plenty of appealing choices. In one particularly heavy downpour, we sought refuge in the Harbourview Hotel. Although they provide full restaurant meals, as it was mid-afternoon, we snuggled in the bar area with a sneaky beverage and took in the history surrounding us.
Peyton reminded us that she would celebrate her double-digit birthday in two days’ time and wanted to have her first ‘grown-up’ drink in this regal place. After Simon and I shared a puzzled look, Peyton settled on freshly squeezed orange juice. She insisted that her photo be taken to mark the occasion and so we obliged, relieved at her innocent choice.
The ISO Bistro, a sophisticated but welcoming cocktail bar and restaurant on the main street is the place to visit if you enjoy fine dining, locally caught seafood, and a lively vibe. Happy Hour is hosted daily between 3pm and 5pm, and you can enjoy live music on weekends.
George’s Beach Club is family-friendly, with ample outdoor seating to enjoy your meal or drink on a nice day. The food at the Yard Café and bar looked equally as enticing. When we passed by on a Saturday afternoon, it was abuzz with people and music. The Shack and Rock-It Kitchen also deliver excellent meals, and for fresh fish and chips, venture down to the wharf and enjoy offerings from Raglan Fish.
Decent coffee is also readily available, whether you’re an existing follower of the iconic Raglan Roast or as we did, visited the friendly team at Morning Glory coffee where we were very happy with our hot, organic coffee that was served with a smile. A group of tourists and a smattering of locals were gathered in the outdoor portico to share morning news. The locals were so welcoming and friendly, it occurred to me that this town is well accustomed to and accepting of visitors.
Alternatively, La La Land café offers breakfast, lunch, coffee, waffles, and speciality chocolates. Their vegan, organic, and gluten-free bonbons are delicious.
Surfing Raglan
I would be remiss not to mention the surf culture in Raglan. There are a few surf shops in the town, but, of course, the beach is where all the action happens. To be precise, Manu Bay or The Point is a famous surfing area six kilometres south of Raglan. The long, left-hand point break allows a competent surfer to catch a wave and ride it for a whopping two kilometres. This beach has large boulders and so is not ideal for sunbathing but is wild and picturesque and, therefore, worth a visit, even if you aren’t keen on braving the waves.
The popular Ngarunui Beach sits roughly five kilometres south of Raglan. Its wide stretch of black sand gives ample space for beach cricket and picnics but is also popular for bodyboarding, surfing, and swimming. In summer months, it’s patrolled by lifeguards but be cautious of the rip tides in the wintertime.
For all levels, the Raglan Surf School offers both private and group lessons. If you’re already a competent surfer, they also hire boards. If you’re even more daring, Adrenaline Alley offers kitesurfing and hydrofoiling lessons. You can visit their shop, Ozone, at 2 John Street to find out more or update your equipment, and it’s an excellent place to learn a new skill and enjoy some water action guided by experienced coaches.
Scenic walks
Right: The Bridal Veil Falls track is home to tūī and fantail
There are many scenic tracks to get the heart pumping. Te Toto Gorge track is a route that was once used extensively by Māori. After a 30-minute walk, you will be rewarded with witnessing the remnants of an ancient Māori settlement. The Bryant Memorial walk is a 10-minute bush-to-beach walk or for more of a challenge, the three-hour Mt Karioi Track allows views of the whole area once you reach the summit. We opted to explore Bridal Veil Falls, a 16-minute drive from Raglan. I would recommend visiting the falls early as when we emerged from the bush at 11am, parking in a motorhome would have been difficult. In case, like me, you overindulged in Raglan coffee, you might like to stop at the toilet block located at the track entrance.
The Bridal Veil Falls were cleverly formed over two million years ago by nature’s wrath. Following a nearby volcanic eruption, lava travelled in the direction of the riverbed. It then plunged over a cliff and hardened to form a unique rock formation. The waterfall cascades over this ancient rock wall and falls 55 metres. It’s an easy 10-minute walk from the car park to the top of the waterfall. If you’re wearing good footwear and feeling energetic, I recommend taking the stairs to the bottom of the falls. It’s a good climb but well worth looking up at the unique rock formation.
The night before we ventured to the falls, there had been heavy rain overnight and so puddles dominated the steps. The ‘physio’ in me was appeased to see handrails all the way down for anyone unsure of their balance. Thankfully, both youngsters made it down and back up without complaint.
In fact, the muddy puddles probably added spice to the adventure. Peyton was even wearing a special boot as she had broken her little toe just before our trip. With children, some drama always transpires.
We were relieved that neither her toe nor the wet prevented our walk, as it was well worth the effort.
Where to stay
We opted to stay at the Raglan Holiday Park. The park is separated from the town by a walking bridge across the estuary, taking less than 10 minutes. For the kids or young at heart, there are three playgrounds along the waterfront catering for different age levels. Here you will also find a bike park, a fish and chip shop, and a parking lot. If you’re not staying in Raglan, you could park on Marine Parade and enjoy the walk across the bridge to town to take in the lovely view and avoid the parking dilemma.
Other options include the Raglan Club, which charges $25 per vehicle per night, or there’s freedom camping available on the corner of James St and Wallis Street. These are both conveniently located in the centre of Raglan town.
Our verdict
Raglan is abundant with culture, history, and friendly locals. Even in winter, it charmed us with beautiful scenery, a plethora of outdoor activities, and a vibrant township. Raglan, we shall be back. Though next time, without any fractured toes.
