When it comes to the evolution of a city, Christchurch’s metamorphosis has been extreme. While this reshaping has been one of necessity, rebuilding from the devastating 2010/2011 earthquakes, magically the heart of the city remains true along with its vibrant tapestry of heritage and creativity.
Despite obvious changes to its landscape, Christchurch continues to captivate. For this trip, we dedicated our time to the city itself, and while the lure of outlying areas like Sumner Beach and Ferrymead beckoned, we set out to rediscover the central city and its many enticements.
While the obvious attributes of Christchurch are world renowned, from its iconic Christchurch Botanic Gardens and Hagley Park, to punting on the Avon River and stunning heritage buildings, the thoughtful approach to how the city has been reformed really is paying dividends. Much of this is down to a clear vision around innovative urban design and architecture, with the rebuild emphasising sustainability, open spaces and river access.
The Ōtākaro/Avon River Precinct now winds through the city as a beautiful green spine with walking and cycling paths, native planting, and riverside dining. Visually, Christchurch is bursting with street art, murals, and sculptures, making it one of the most photographed cities in New Zealand. Yet amongst this progression are reminders of the heartache, with the 185 Empty White Chairs memorial and the Cardboard Cathedral offering poignant, meaningful reminders of what the city has overcome, yet presented as symbols of hope and creativity.
As we explored the city, mostly on foot thanks to excellent pedestrian areas and cycleways, our other main mode of transport was onboard the historic trams – surely the most delicious way to explore this historical city.
Christchurch Trams
If you’re yet to embark on this unique experience, a combination of sightseeing, city exploration and historical tour, rest assured it’s not just a tourist gimmick. These historic trams a fascinating nod to an era that played a key role in the development of Christchurch. It’s also the perfect way to familiarise yourself with the city layout. Start your day by riding the full loop, taking in the commentary along the way by one of the knowledgeable and passionate tram drivers (aka tour guides). Packed with interesting snippets about everything from the trams themselves to architecture and fun facts about local hot spots, you can hop on and off at your leisure (this also gives you the opportunity to ride more than one tram). Tram 11 boasts the most impressive history, dating back an astonishing 120 years (which explains the lack of heating or aircon). If you’re visiting on a particularly warm day, opt for tram 24 and its open sides.
Quake City
Quake City is a special exhibition at Canterbury Museum paying homage to all aspects of the Canterbury earthquakes. Heart-achingly poignant, this beautifully curated collection of artifacts includes the fallen spire of Christ Church Cathedral and clocks from the demolished railway station. Sit and watch moving interviews with earthquake survivors and then wander among displays of personal stories and scientific explanations. The interactive liquefaction simulator offers a reality check as to what Christchurch experienced, and buckled steel rods from the Hotel Grand Chancellor are an all-too real reminder of the power of earthquakes. The outpouring of love from around New Zealand (and the world) is captured in the selection of some of the 4000+ hand stitched hearts that were sent to Canterbury by individuals in support of this time. It’s a moving exhibition that will remain with you long after you leave.
Art Galleries
Right: An Antony Gormley sculpture at The Arts Centre
While the better-known Christchurch Art Gallery Te Puna o Waiwhetū and Contemporary of Contemporary Art/Toi Moroki house a rich and ever-evolving array of local, international and contemporary art, our gem of the trip was The Arts Centre Te Matatiki Toi Ora. Home to galleries, museums and retailers, this eclectic mix is housed in a thriving cultural precinct born from Canterbury College’s historical buildings. Check the website before you visit as live performances and events are often on the calendar. It’s easy to while away a full day here, soaking in everything from delicious eateries to wonderful collections of local art and creativity. Homegrown Gallery has a different artist in residence onsite every day.
A true landmark in the central city, the Gothic Revival-style Arts Centre complex comprises 23 buildings in total and an astonishing 22 of these are listed by Heritage New Zealand. It’s a sensory treat in every sense, with something unexpected around every corner. Nestled in amongst magnificent artworks are treasures like Mrs Bumbleberry’s Lolly Shop (nostalgia overload), Frances Nation Shop (dedicated to New Zealand made homewares and gifts), The Fudge Cottage and Fragranzi Artisan Perfume Studio.
Set yourself a challenge of visiting all of the city galleries, and include Fibre Gallery, Fiksate Gallery, Jonathon Smart Gallery and Windsor Gallery.
Riverside Market
An intriguing blend of global thinking while celebrating local artisans, Riverside Market is a hub of restaurants, eateries and fresh food suppliers, along with laneway shops and some of the best coffee in the city at the tiny Empire Coffee stall. This vibrant space opened in 2019 and has played an important role in helping revitalise the inner city. Modelled on similar food markets in Copenhagen and Sydney, it’s spacious open design smacks of international influence, but fortunately a firm focus has seen it remain true to helping showcase small local business owners (a number of the food sites formerly operated out of foodtrucks) and local produce.
It’s a buzzing place to spend time, whether you’re there for the food, the vibe, or both. Don’t get too mesmerised by the enticing offerings inside only – make sure you wander out to the carpark area to view the impressive trompe l’oeil mural. Having won the Design Institute of New Zealand’s social good award, it’s a popular choice for those wanting to capture eye catching photos to record their time. Grab your snap and head back inside for round two – take your time to meander around or you might miss a tiny gem such as Cluck Cluck Slurp, Bellbird Bakery or Smokey T’s. Open seven days a week, Riverside Market and Riverside Lane are a treasure trove waiting to be explored.
Eat, Drink, Be Merry
Prepare to indulge your palate, with endless outstanding eateries to choose from whether for a quick snack on the go or evening of indulgence. At the top of your must-do list should be the glamorous King Of Snake, with its moody interior a perfect counterfoil for its vibrant, modern menu and cocktails. Little High Eatery is also one of Christchurch’s coolest spaces to eat; the city sure knows how to do modern marketplaces. Add in a tour tour of Regent St where you’ll find Rollickin Gelato, Café Stir and Story, as well as Gin Gin and The Last Word (for whisky aficionados). If you’re travelling with family, Margaret Mahy playground is an absolute must (surely the best playground in New Zealand) and conveniently located opposite is Child Sister (the potato, leek, chilli scones are addictive). Check out C1 Espresso also in the old High Street Post Office where your food is delivered through pneumatic tubes aka Willy Wonka style, and you tread the pedals on an old sewing machine for your water. Pay close attention here as everything is not as it seems – a wall of books may be hiding a secret doorway, etc.
The Tannery Emporium
While we set out to solely explore Christchurch City, it’s impossible not to include one of the highlights of our trip. Take a short trip to the banks of the Heathcote river in Woolston where you’ll find yourself mesmerised by what is essentially Diagon Alley for adults (if you’re familiar with the Harry Potter movie series). If not, the quaint name of The Tannery Emporium offers a strong hint of what you can expect: absolutely charming boutique shopping, entertainment and dining in a setting that’s wholly unapologetic about its dedication to celebrating local artisans and brands, whilst also stepping up for those who appreciate quality and making ethical purchases. It’s a welcome and refreshing take on the ‘mall’ concept, yet The Tannery and its Victorian-inspired architecture are a million light years away from any traditional city shopping mall. A central glass atrium runs the length of the main building, flooding the interior with light, while each shop shares a yesteryear vibe with a full window shop frontage and enticing display. With more than 50 boutique shops, restaurants, bars and even a deluxe cinema, it’s a retail destination like no other. The retail lineup covers everything from fashion, gifts, homewares, recreation, wellbeing, leisure, crafts, dining, health and beauty.
Whether you’re a frequent visitor to Christchurch or starting to plan your 2026 adventures, add a gold star to this enduring city and prepare to be surprised.
