Spending time in Dunedin is a newfound passion for Elisabeth Easther – not only does it quench her love of travel, exploration and adventure, but it’s also a new family destination offering the opportunity to reconnect and share fresh experiences.
I live in Auckland, so when my son Theo decided to study at Otago, I was a little sad he was going so far away. But on the upside, his being in Dunedin means I now have a good reason to visit the charming South Island city.
Earlier this year (Theo’s second down there), he suggested I book a trip for autumn. Although he did have an ulterior motive – he wanted warm gear brought down too. Fair enough, those student flats can be arctic.
Booking my tickets based on price I chose Jetstar going down and Air NZ coming home, and by chance the dates coincided with Mother’s Day. The gods were smiling.
At the airport, my single checked in piece of luggage contained, among other things, winter woollens for the lad, a duvet, an electric blanket and Ugg boots. I also had a small carry-on for the return trip. It turns out I should’ve put more in the checked bag, because Jetstar weighs everyone’s cabin luggage at the gate. And they are very strict about enforcing the modest limit. What’s more, they charge like a wounded bull if you’re over the allocated weight. Fate was no longer in my favour.
A lifetime of self-employment has made me pathologically frugal, and six days down South with rental car and motels was costing quite enough, so I was hellbent on finding a solution. I skulked round the corner to weigh up my options.
I fossicked in my backpack. What else could I wear or stuff in my pockets? As I pondered this, I noticed a woman with a warm open face, so I honed in and asked if she’d carry some things. Initially taken aback, she agreed, provided there was no contraband!
Cindy and her partner Jacques were a friendly pair, headed home from visiting mokopuna in Auckland. He was evidently French, and she was an elfin dynamo. As for me in my too heavy coat now with layers beneath, I had heated up on hitting this airside hurdle and was a sweating wreck, on my knees decanting my belongings into the obliging strangers’ bags.
Back at the weigh station, I’m finally labelled fit to fly and we’re herded on to the plane, with these kind strangers now carrying seven kilograms of my belongings. I suddenly realised I’d handed over my books, my diary and my laptop, which meant I was unable to read en route. Quelle horreur. But I survived, and they did too, as it can be risky, carrying luggage for heavily perspiring unknown quantities.
Disembarking in Dunedin, I waited for my saviours to emerge. We joked about them selling my laptop and other scenarios often part of movie folklore. Whilst chatting and thanking them, I also mentioned my intention to cycle the Port to Port Loop while in Dunedin. They said if it was convenient, perhaps they could come along too and so we swapped details and phone numbers.
Fast forward to the Friday before Mother’s Day; my son and I collected two e-bikes from Electrify NZ on Cumberland St. As well as being a loving mother, I’m a keen cyclist and I wanted to ride the aforementioned 32km loop. It would be my Mother’s Day present to myself, and Theo promised to come with me.
I spent Saturday night making a hearty dinner for the flat, before dropping some of the boys at parties. I remind Theo not to stay out too late, because he had promised to pedal.
Cut to Mothering Sunday, and surprise, Theo had stayed out till the wee small hours. I could’ve made him ride, but who wants to drag a grumpy, hungover 19-year-old around the place. Not this mother, so I called my airport angels. Would Cindy and Jacques be free to come avec moi? Oui bien sur! Cindy’s also keen to ride Theo’s rented e-bike, while fit as a fiddle Jacques is happy to keep up on his regular velo.
Right: Another bird’s-eye-view of Port Chalmers
C’etait une belle jour! I get to know my new friends, and we have so much in common. From the get-go, physiotherapist Cindy and I are cackling away like old mates while Jacques is jetting up ahead to take photos. What’s more, they’re such enthusiastic cyclists, who’ve turned their passion for travel into their profession, and for the last 20 years, they’ve been leading small group active tours in the South of France in the kiwi winter. France Active Tour is all about cycling, hiking and Pilates, with fine food, fine wine and lashings of bonhomie.
Interesting and welcoming, my new companions were the perfect ambassadors for Dunedin, and they made my Mother’s Day. Talented videographer Jacques even made an adorable souvenir movie montage.
As for the ride, when we set off at 9am on the crisp autumn day from Emerson’s Brewery – the harbour was a mirror. Booked to sail on the 12:30 Port to Port Ferry, we were in no hurry, and we exchanged greetings with everyone we passed, from walkers with dogs, to rugged up joggers and more serious cyclists.
Cindy suggested we stop at Glen Falloch. Even though the restaurant was gearing up for Mothers’ Day, the friendly staff encouraged us to explore the gorgeous grounds and admire the fall foliage, the ponds and paths and giant bird sculptures.
Back on our bikes, we rode on to historic Fletcher House. Looking across Broad Bay, the caretaker gave us a tour of this darling Edwardian home. Built in 1909, it is a veritable time capsule with original wallpaper, period furniture and an ancient antique telephone. From there it was a short blast to picturesque Portobello where we stopped for a bite at The Cove Café. In true Ōtepoti style, we got chatting with the people at the next table because that’s how it’s done down south.
Seeing the ferry approach, we skedaddle to the dock and board for the 15-minute scenic crossing. As well as conveying cyclists from one side of the harbour to the other, Captain Rachel leads on-water wildlife tours, using her wealth of maritime experience to educate and entertain her passengers.
From historic Port Chalmers, we pedalled back towards the city along the sunshiny railside cycleway.As for the e-bikes, they rendered headwinds and hills irrelevant, plus they meant we had plenty of breath for chattering. Bidding my new friends a fond farewell, I rolled to Theo’s flat, where it was no more Mrs Nice Mother – 2pm is time to get up and Theo and I spent the rest of the day exploring, before enjoying an early Mothers’ Day dinner.
As for the trip home, even though I was flying Air New Zealand, and they’re more laissez faire about luggage limits, I booked a checked-in bag just in case. As for Dunedin, it reminded why I love travelling, because if your eyes and your heart are open, strangers can easily become friends.
For more information:
- Port to Port Loop dunedincycleway.co.nz
- Electrify NZ electrify.nz
- Port To Port Cruises porttoport.co.nz
- France Active Tours franceactivetour.com
