While Dunedin is undeniably a year-round drawcard for visitors, Lisa Jansen explores further afield and finds rare birds, stunning scenery, a magical castle, and plenty more to delight along the Otago Peninsula
You can often hear Dunedin locals say, “It’s hard to beat Dunedin on a stunning day.” Those who have been lucky to visit on one of those – admittedly somewhat rare – stunning days would probably agree with that statement. However, while Dunedin city certainly has its charms, the beauty of its surrounding areas makes this region so hard to beat, and the Otago Peninsula is the perfect example.
This long finger of land that starts south of the city centre and stretches northeast into the Pacific is a must-visit for nature and wildlife lovers. The peninsular comprises green hills, steep cliffs, sandy beaches, and small settlements. Along the way, there’s plenty to explore and see, from large birds to enchanting gardens, a magnificent castle, and beautiful walks to name just a few.
If you find yourself in or near Dunedin, the Otago Peninsula is one area you don’t want to skip and is definitely deserving of planning a trip to on its own merits.
Cruise along Portobello Rd
Portobello Rd is the main drive out onto the peninsula. The road winds along the harbour’s edge for about 15km, from just outside Dunedin’s city centre to the small settlement of Portobello. On a nice day, the views are stunning the whole way, and there are several excellent spots to pull over to enjoy the scenery and take photos.
The Glenfalloch Gardens and Café (about 6.5km after turning onto Portobello Rd) are deserving of a stopover. Wander through the beautifully maintained Glenfalloch Woodland Garden, showcasing more than 140 years of botanical heritage.
Truly a garden of four seasons, displaying native ferns, exotic imports, and indigenous New Zealand trees, spring is particularly impressive, with mass plantings of tulips, daffodils, rhododendrons, azaleas, and Japanese flowering cherries, alongside drifts of English bluebells, snowdrops, primula candelabra, and wild primroses. It’s a visual delight with fresh wonders around every corner.
Once you’ve had the fill of the magical grounds, treat yourself to delicious coffee and food at the café/restaurant setting – the daily lunch specials are always worth investigating and there’s a strong selection of vegan, dairy-free, and gluten-free options always on the menu.
Also in Portobello, you will find a couple of other restaurants and cafés, a small shop, and a petrol station. Portobello has the only campground on the Peninsula, so if you plan to stay a few days, this is the place to go.
Step back in time at Larnach Castle
In the hills southwest of Portobello is New Zealand’s most famous castle. Built in 1821 by William Larnach and lovingly restored by the Barker family from 1967, the castle is a spectacular sight and there’s a reason visitors both from around New Zealand and overseas flock to it year-round.
Larnach spared no expense in building this dream home. It took approximately 200 men and three years to build the shell of the castle and another 12 years for European craftsmen to embellish the interior. Looking at the imposing castle today, it’s easy to see the effort and attention to detail that went into not only building it in the first place but also restoring it more recently.
With a castle this magnificent, it’s unexpected to discover breathtaking gardens that match this unique offering. A legacy of love, Larnach Castle gardens weave their magic around seven acres and have been rated by the New Zealand Gardens Trust as a Garden of International Significance.
Specialised gardens include the Patterned Garden, the Lost Rock Garden, the Serpentine Walk, the Rain Forest, the Alice Lawn, and the Laburnum Arch. If you’re travelling with children or grandchildren, there’s plenty to entice and entertain around the grounds, with features such as the Wishing Well, the Dungeon, and a challenge to find the Oamaru Stone Cheshire Cat.
Set aside a day (or more) to wander and take it all in. There is a café on-site or you can pre-book for a Victorian High Tea at Larnach Castle in the Ballroom Café. Open to visitors year-round, a self-guided tour around the castle, gardens, and grounds costs $45 per adult, or you can opt for the gardens and grounds only for $22 per adult.
Be mesmerised at the Royal Albatross Centre
Situated at the most northern tip of the Peninsular on the rugged cliffs of Taiaroa Head is The Royal Albatross Centre.
Albatross are the world’s largest seabirds with a massive wingspan of three meters. They usually breed on remote offshore islands and spend at least 85% of their lives at sea, flying an estimated 190,000km a year. Home to the only mainland breeding colony of royal albatross in the world, the centre offers a unique opportunity to witness these magnificent seabirds up close from a viewing platform near the nesting area. In addition, guided tours provide insight into the biology, behaviour, and conservation efforts surrounding these iconic creatures.
With its magnificent residents, stunning coastal location, and commitment to environmental stewardship, it’s no surprise many consider The Royal Albatross Centre the highlight of the Otago Peninsula.
Get up close and personal with nature at The OPERA
If a visit to the Royal Albatross Centre leaves you wanting to learn more about local wildlife and conservation, nearby OPERA (Otago Peninsula Eco Restoration Alliance) is the place to go.
The OPERA is a private eco-reserve focused on conservation, rehabilitation, reforestation, and education. Originally founded in 1985 as Penguin Place, it’s one of the oldest ecotourism operations in New Zealand.
Join a guided tour for a chance to encounter and learn about penguins, fur seals, sea lions, shore and land birds, native fauna, and more. Since the land is only accessible via a guided tour, and group sizes are small, this is an excellent way to get up close and personal with wildlife and nature.
Enjoy stunning views from the top of the Pyramids
Visitors who enjoy going off the beaten track will love the Pyramids and Victory Beach in the northeast of the peninsula. Turn onto Weir Road north of Portobello and keep left at the Papanui Inlet to reach this less famous sight on the peninsula.
You can see the prism-shaped peaks from the car park, and an easy 30-minute walk will take you there. As you come over the steps, keep your eyes open for a narrow path on your right that takes you to the top of the smaller pyramid. It’s well worth the climb for the amazing views from the top.
From the Pyramids, you can continue following the track to Victory Beach, a remote beach popular among seals, sea lions, and yellow-eyed penguins. However, be aware that beach access can be tricky. Recent storms have resulted in a steep drop down to the beach. While getting down is easy enough, getting back up can be a different story.
Meet local sea lions
If you want to see the massive sea lions, the area is famous for in the wild without the effort required to get to Victory Beach, there are two other excellent options.
Allans Beach on the south side of the peninsula is the most accessible beach that’s popular with wildlife. The road from Portobello is mostly gravel, but it’s well-maintained and wide enough to be suitable for most vehicles. However, if you’re towing, it might be best to leave the caravan behind. From the car park, it’s a short walk over the dunes onto the beach. Note that this is a popular tour stop and can sometimes feel crowded.
Another excellent spot for sea lion encounters is Sandfly Bay. A short but steep and sandy walk takes you from the car park down to the stunning beach, where you can often find sea lions sunbathing. There’s also a walking track from Sandfly Bay through farmland and up to Sandymount Reserve. It’s not well sign-posted in parts, but the All Trails mobile app has a map that will help you stay on track.
When driving out to Sandfly Bay with a large vehicle, it’s best to come from the southwest, as Highcliff Rd from Portobello to Sandymount is very windy and narrow in parts. Also, be aware that Sandfly Bay has limited parking, especially for large vehicles.
Regardless of where you encounter the majestic sea lions, remember to give them space. They might look chubby and slow, but they can outrun most of us if they feel threatened (or annoyed).
Explore and discover
With so many attractions on offer, the area is cared for and supported by Otago Peninsula Trust. As New Zealand’s first private charitable conservation trust, it continues to preserve and develop tourist attractions and public services. This includes educational programmes, fundraising, and hosting a number of public events throughout the year, so do a quick check online to see if your trip coincides with anything special on the calendar.
