Tutukākā may be a small dot on the map of New Zealand, but it packs a destination punch well above its weight. It’s not just visiting Kiwis who think so – National Geographic Traveller rated it as one of the top coastal destinations on the planet. Lisa Potter visits and discovers plenty of reasons to return.
Located east of Whangārei and often (incorrectly) regarded merely as a short detour on northbound travels, this sheltered harbour spot is well worth allocating extra time as part of any travel itinerary.
With a coastline that includes Matapouri, Whale Bay and Sandy Bay, its summer merits are obvious, but Tutukākā has year-round appeal, largely thanks to its marina, diving and exploration options.
Underwater Adventures
As the gateway to internationally renowned Poor Knights Island (a marine reserve, nature reserve and pending World Heritage Site), there’s a reason Tutukākā Marina is such a popular drawcard – for deep sea fishers, for those wishing to appreciate the marine reserve, or enjoy a day on the water with stunning scenery both above and below.
The seascape beneath is shaped from volcanic origins dating back 11 million years and offers spectacular caves, tunnels, arches and drop offs and generous populations of plant, animal and fish life. So lush and vast is this underwater haven that French oceanographer Jacques Cousteau rated it as one of the top 10 dive spots in the world.
The Poor Knights group of islands – two large (Tawhiti Rahi and Aorangi) and 10 smaller islands – are almost perfectly set in an intersection between temperate and subtropical waters.
There are plenty of options for non-divers also. To experience it all, consider the ‘Perfect Day’ cruise, a curated non-diving Poor Knights experience, offering sight-seeing, kayaking, cave explorations, snorkelling, swimming, sea mammal-spotting, snippets of fascinating history and great food. The trip includes visiting the world’s largest sea cave, Rikoriko Cave, and its surrounding arches.
Locals are justifiably proud of the ocean’s offerings, and none more so than the team at Dive! Tutukaka, with the dedicated crew there taking much pride and joy in sharing the scenic delights with visitors year-round. Catering for everyone from the seasoned divers to first-timer’s, Dive! Tutukaka operates as a Five Star PADI IDC Centre with its own salt-water pool for training (and sauna for relaxation).
The experienced team of instructors are made up of marine biologists, naturalists, tech and wreck specialists and even award-winning photographers.
Started by Aussie Malcolm and Jeroen Jongejeans in 1999 (who also had the idea to sink the HMNZS Tui and Waikato just off the coast for divers), Dive! Tutukaka remains family owned and operated. As a couple, Aussie’s daughter Kate and Jeroen took over the business in 2012. Jeroen sadly passed away in 2022 and Kate continues the legacy, assisted by Stan the doodle dog and a passionate crew of locals and internationals.
Kate is also the stylish mind behind Lodge 9, offering boutique eco-friendly accommodation in keeping with the welcoming vibe of Tutukākā. This thoughtfully designed calm and zen space features local artwork, bespoke furnishings, the best supply of tea flavours you’re likely to find, and offers six private rooms as well as a communal shared space.
Sustainability has been uppermost in all design decisions and championing the skills of locals also, right down to all of the pottery (mugs, plates etc) having been handmade by a local Raku potter, with the number 9 (for Lodge 9) stamped onto each piece.
As you stroll into the courtyard, take note of the wooden features, many of which have been upcycled from the original coastal boardwalks, including original channel markers. The waka hanging in the courtyard is the first waka that was handmade by founder of the local Mitimitanga Ole Pasifika Waka Ama Club.
Dotted around Lodge 9 are other eye-catching artworks, with the welcoming entrance hall piece particularly noteworthy. Created by Emily Karaka, a local artist of Ngapuhi descent, who trained under Colin McCahon, it is sought after by Te Papa – but remains on display in Tutukākā.
If you’re looking for your own slice of New Zealand art as a momento, the main street of Tutukākā is an unexpected hotspot for quality New Zealand art, with the beautifully curated Tutukākā Gallery operating as the ultimate showcase for local and New Zealand artists.
With resident artist Steve Moase at the helm, the gallery serves up an evolving feast of paintings, sculptures, glass, jewellery and ceramics. Whether the sun is beating down or it’s pouring with rain outside, it’s the perfect place to immerse yourself for hours, exploring the creativity of both new and well-established artists.
As well as occasionally being able to catch Steve Moase at work and marvel at his ability to capture local landscapes, make an effort to seek out pieces by artist and sculptor Trish Clark (her recycled copper pieces are stunning, and justify her reputation for highly sought after large metal works), as well as the ethereal glass blown pieces by Justin Culina. Each individual artwork is handmade and unique and a statement piece for any setting. In sharp contrast to the fragile Culina glasswork, are highly burnished smoke fired patina mixed media pieces by Rhonda Halliday, another local artist who has exhibited nationally and internationally. There’s also a selection of cards with work by the artists, ensuring art for every budget. Just down the street is Urchin, with a fine selection of giftware and clothing, and Tutukākā Surf, packed with popular brands and everything you might need for a day on the water.
Rest & Relaxation
While Tutukākā consists of just one main street and a handful of businesses, it offers a choice of four bars and restaurants (all conveniently within walking distance of each other). Schnappa Rock offers a truly outstanding menu, with a focus on fresh seasonal produce (much of it grown behind the restaurant). The quality of both the food and service here is worth a trip to Tutukākā alone. It was entirely unexpected and remains unforgotten.
There’s also Village Eats café in the main street, Te Akau Roa (at Oceans Resort Hotel), Marina Woodfired Dining and Anglers Club Bistro, both a short stroll down the marina. Tutukākā Store takes care of general supplies and petrol supplies.
Tutukākā Marina
What began life as a few pile moorings (many of these are dotted around town enjoying a new life as land sculptures), the Tutukākā Marina underwent a reclamation in the 1970s, progressing to timber pontoons, and then upgraded further to the modern concrete pontoons featured today.
With its close proximity to deep sea game fishing, as well as Poor Knights Islands, it’s a popular base for boat owners wanting to base themselves and those travelling by water from Auckland to Bay of Islands.
If you’re looking for a bird’s eye view of the area, embark upon the walk to Tutukākā Lighthouse. Before you get too excited at the thought of lighthouse selfies, the view itself is the reward. The lighthouse itself is not a traditional lighthouse but visually is more like a concrete triangle-shaped trig house. However, the views more than compensate and span right out to Poor Knights Islands (make sure you embark on this walk on an outgoing tide).
While you’ve got your walking shoes on, consider also a trip to Tane Moana, the largest Kauri tree on the East Coast, along with a number of shorter walks, which begin off Tutukākā Block Road, with options for most fitness levels. For those travelling by RV, Tutukākā Holiday Park is just a few metres from the marina and boat ramp and offers powered sites, cabins and bunkrooms.
Remote But Remarkable
Enjoy the remote coastal vistas as you make your way to Tutukākā and soak in the vast landscapes. Prepare to become part of this special community, which has a generous spirit towards visitors and takes pride in sharing its many attributes. I challenge you not to want to return.
