There’s something beautifully poetic about a Scottish whisky veteran and his French wife choosing a small North Island town to create what is fast becoming one of the world’s most talked-about single malt whiskies. Lisa Potter finds out more.
Pōkeno Whisky founder Matt Johns and his wife Céline never imagined their move to New Zealand in 2012 would spark something far bigger. What began as a lifestyle change for them and their two daughters quickly evolved into a bold vision: to take centuries of Scotch whisky expertise and craft something entirely new, shaped by Aotearoa’s land, climate and character.
From Scotland to Pōkeno: A Passion Project
After nearly three decades working in the whisky industry (mainly in Scotland), Matt arrived in New Zealand to find a surprising gap: no dedicated distilleries producing single malt whisky at scale. Where others may have hesitated, Matt and Céline saw opportunity.
Undaunted, they took a brave leap, and while it took nearly three years to navigate the inevitable hurdles before breaking ground, their shared vision never wavered.
“It is absolutely a passion project,” Matt says. “We knew how to make whisky, and we wanted to create something that reflected New Zealand.”
Today, Pōkeno Whisky is New Zealand’s largest dedicated single malt distillery, producing everything on site – from mashing and distillation through to maturation and bottling. The focus is unwavering: 100% single malt whisky, with no shortcuts and no diversions into other spirits.
“If we’re going to the trouble of making whisky here, it needs to be the best we can possibly make. No compromises.”
Why Pōkeno? It’s All in the Water
In whisky-making, location is everything. For Matt, the choice of Pōkeno came down to one critical factor: water.
Within an hour’s radius of Auckland, few places offer what lies beneath Pōkeno – a pristine underground aquifer fed by volcanic rainwater from the Bombay Hills. Filtered naturally over decades and rich in minerals, it provides an exceptional foundation for distillation.
But the magic doesn’t stop there. Pōkeno’s subtropical microclimate plays a defining role in the maturation process. In Scotland, whisky typically loses around 1.5% of its volume each year to evaporation (the ‘angel’s share’). In Pōkeno, that figure jumps to around 9.5%.
The result? Whisky that matures significantly faster, developing depth, complexity and character in just a few short years, yet standing confidently alongside much older Scotch counterparts on the world stage.
A Distillery Like No Other
At Pōkeno Whisky, everything happens under one roof. From locally sourced water to New Zealand-grown grain, every detail is carefully considered. It’s a level of control that allows the team to focus relentlessly on quality – long fermentations, slow distillations and meticulous cask selection all play their part.
And it’s those casks that form one of the most distinctive elements of the Pōkeno story.
Crafting Character: New Zealand’s Only Cooperage
In 2023, Pōkeno Whisky took a bold step: launching New Zealand’s only cooperage and bringing the ancient craft of barrel-making in-house.
Led by Scottish master cooper Mike Tawse, who learned at the hands of his father, the cooperage is central to Pōkeno Whisky’s innovation. One of fewer than 300 coopers worldwide, Mike’s role is highly specialised and deeply influential.
A cooper crafts wooden barrels from individual timber staves, shaping, steaming and charring them before securing each with metal hoops. These barrels are far more than vessels – they are essential to the whisky itself, influencing flavour, aroma, texture and character.
This cooperage is about more than tradition, however. It’s also about pushing boundaries. A long-held ambition has been to mature whisky in barrels made from New Zealand native timbers. Today, that vision is a reality.
The distillery has released the world’s first tōtara cask whisky, along with a pioneering kauri cask expression. These native woods impart entirely unique flavour profiles, creating a distinctly New Zealand signature that simply can’t be replicated elsewhere.
The process is complex. Native timbers require more preparation than traditional oak, but the results speak for themselves.
Alongside crafting around 20 native timber barrels each year (limited to ensure sustainable sourcing), the cooperage also supports the wider industry, repairing hundreds of casks annually for distilleries and wineries across the country.
Family, Community and Craft
Despite its growing global international reputation, Pōkeno Whisky remains a deeply personal, family-run business. Matt and Céline are supported by a passionate team of locals across production, sales, bottling and the visitor centre. Even their daughter Emma has played a role, guiding visitors through distillery tours.
That sense of connection extends well beyond the gates. The distillery is deeply embedded in the Pōkeno community, hosting local events, supporting initiatives and celebrating traditions such as Burns Night dinners, complete with haggis, whisky and a nod to Scottish heritage.
It truly is a business built not just on craftsmanship, but on people.
From Local Secret to Global Success
What began as a passion project has quickly become an international success story. Today, Pōkeno Whisky is exported to 34 markets worldwide and has established itself as New Zealand’s leading single malt brand.
Much of that success comes down to one simple philosophy: let people taste it.
Through trade shows, tastings and now distillery tours, the brand has built a loyal following. Visitors arrive curious and leave converted, usually with a bottle in hand and a genuine connection to the story behind it.
Alongside a swag of global awards, 2026 has already yielded surprises. Pōkeno Whisky was named a global finalist in two categories at the prestigious World Whisky Awards – the only New Zealand distillery to achieve this, and the only one worldwide shortlisted in two categories.
Pōkeno Alchemy has been named among the world’s top five small batch whiskies, while its Port Cask expression ranks among the top five single casks globally.
Experience It for Yourself
Opening the distillery to the public was never part of the original plan. But after persistent interest from curious locals and travellers, the team decided to trial tours. Spoiler alert: they were an immediate success.
The Pōkeno Whisky tour is a must-do experience, offering an inside look at the entire process, from grain to glass. Visitors can explore the distillery and cooperage, learn about the unique maturation process, and, of course, enjoy a guided tasting.
More than just a tour, it’s an opportunity to connect with the people, the place and the passion behind every bottle.
